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Fairview Heights 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bob Jensen/Sean Kriletich
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer/fall
Page Views: 1,216
Submitted By: bob jensen on Sep 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Overlay

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1. Start up Powell Route corner and cut out right almost immediately passing two bolts to a roof. Over roof passing three more bolts to an anchor ledge. Gear high and right for anchor. 5.9

Pitch 2. Climb the crack right of Powell corner.( may actually be Powell route) Savor the heirloom variety. 5.8

Pitch 3. Start up the left crack until a weakness allows fairly moderate passage to the right crack. Balance/power your way up past small nuts and a bolt. Gain Separation Anxiety dike and clip another bolt. Head up to a two bolt belay. 5.11

Pitch 4. Head up and left passing two bolts. It's a bit run to the first bolt, but it's easy. Pass through roof then face climb past three bolts to a two bolt anchor. 10b

Pitch 5. The transition pitch. Climb crack above anchor until one can mantle into the scoop out left. Follow scoop until right leaning grassy corner is reached. Climb this corner ten or so feet until two bolts lead left across face. Gain crack after passing bolts and surmount a roof above on the right. Then follow left arching crack through the top of the inverted stairs on Inverted Staircase, passing left until a two bolt semi-hanging belay is reached. 10a

Pitch 6. The Crack Quest looms above. Climb crack just right of belay. Keep connecting them. After making it to the fourth crack one may consider going around right to Inverted Staircase. DON'T! As the leader you will already have done any heady business. Take the left leaner to the two bolt anchor. It's airy, heirloomy, protects great, and is pretty dang 5.9ish. Really.
Long, fun pitch. The pro and holds/jams keep coming. 10d

Pitch 7. Head more or less straight up passing 5 bolts. Cut right to ledge after last bolt. Build gear anchor in bush above. This pitch is a bit friable. A little time will heal. 10d/11a

Pitch 8. Follow ledge system left until the last bolted,pitch is reached. It happens to be the apex of the ledge system. 5.6

Pitch 9. Climb past 5 bolts and a bit of gear if wanted. 10a/b

You have finished the route. Good on ya'll!!!

Location 

Approximately 34.5 feet off the road the route starts on first 20 feet of The Powell Route. Spot two bolts to the right on slab heading to a left arching roof. See pics.

Protection 

Doubles micro to wide fingers/thin hands. Single 1,2,3 camalots. Solid set of micro and offset nuts. A set of offset aliens was nice. That or triple up on small to fingers.


Photos of Fairview Heights Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7
Pitch 7
Rock Climbing Photo: Following pitch 9.
Following pitch 9.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crack Quest pitch 6
The Crack Quest pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7 from the ledge
Pitch 7 from the ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: The transition pitch 5
The transition pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crack Quest pitch 6
The Crack Quest pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of pitch 4
Start of pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch 3
The crux pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: The Heirloom.   Pitch 2
The Heirloom. Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up first pitch
Heading up first pitch

Comments on Fairview Heights Add Comment
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By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Sep 10, 2015

Wowsa!

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