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Fairies Wear Boots 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover, Chandler Davis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,426
Submitted By: michal on Jul 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Looking down at the enjoyable corner

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Start up juggy climbing too a boulder problem throwing to two big knobs. From there classic slab moves lead to a shallow corner. Stem and press your way up the fantastic knob studded corner to a small roof, face climb to another corner and finish on slopers pulling onto belay ledge. Tie knots in rope this is a long pitch!!!! Not sure if 60m makes it. Solid for the grade. Named after Black Sabbath song "Fairies Wear Boots" "So I went to the doctor
See what he could give me
He said sorry son, you've gone too far.
'Cause smokin' and trippin' is all that you do."


Left of less than zero, right of short bolted climbs near "outdoor hang board".


Quickdraws, cam's, stoppers work really well

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By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 7, 2016

Looks great. Two questions:

Is it "fairies"?

Does the boulder problem have a different grade?
By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

~12 draws I ran out and there's two pins and a bolt at the top I couldn't see. Small gear and stoppers for the crack. Awesome mixed line, boulder problem is not impossible for an onsite attempt. Definitely harder than the wizard!
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pins are on less than zero, that finishes up at the same anchor but is out of reach from this route. There is a bolt or two up there though!
By Usz
Sep 9, 2016

As good as Act of Strange Boar, there should be lines waiting for this climb
By IJMayer
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 23, 2017

glad i'm not the only person who thought this was .11a. At the final bolt I used the arete out right for a move or two (below the two pins), before moving back left into the corner. awesome body position! this climb keeps you guessing the whole way!

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