REI Community
Lower Cheeks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Active Boys Puke a Lot T,S 
All Dogs Go to Heaven S 
Attractive Nuisance S 
Clay T 
Engines of Archimedes S 
Fairies Wear Boots T 
Fiction T 
Friendly Fire S 
Gerberding Route T,TR 
Green Room, The T,S,TR 
Heat Seeker T,TR 
Infinite Jest S 
La Bomba Roof S 
Tango for Two T 
Wizard, The S 
Zipper (complete aid line), The T 
Zipper, The T 

Fairies Wear Boots 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover, Chandler Davis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,329
Submitted By: michal on Jul 7, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking down at the enjoyable corner

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up juggy climbing too a boulder problem throwing to two big knobs. From there classic slab moves lead to a shallow corner. Stem and press your way up the fantastic knob studded corner to a small roof, face climb to another corner and finish on slopers pulling onto belay ledge. Tie knots in rope this is a long pitch!!!! Not sure if 60m makes it. Solid for the grade. Named after Black Sabbath song "Fairies Wear Boots" "So I went to the doctor
See what he could give me
He said sorry son, you've gone too far.
'Cause smokin' and trippin' is all that you do."

Location 

Left of less than zero, right of short bolted climbs near "outdoor hang board".

Protection 

Quickdraws, cam's, stoppers work really well


Photos of Fairies Wear Boots Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers view
Climbers view
Rock Climbing Photo: Faries wear boots
Faries wear boots

Comments on Fairies Wear Boots Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 7, 2016

Looks great. Two questions:

Is it "fairies"?

Does the boulder problem have a different grade?
By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

~12 draws I ran out and there's two pins and a bolt at the top I couldn't see. Small gear and stoppers for the crack. Awesome mixed line, boulder problem is not impossible for an onsite attempt. Definitely harder than the wizard!
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pins are on less than zero, that finishes up at the same anchor but is out of reach from this route. There is a bolt or two up there though!
By Usz
Sep 9, 2016

As good as Act of Strange Boar, there should be lines waiting for this climb
By IJMayer
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 23, 2017

glad i'm not the only person who thought this was .11a. At the final bolt I used the arete out right for a move or two (below the two pins), before moving back left into the corner. awesome body position! this climb keeps you guessing the whole way!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About