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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Douglas Harston Reed 1989
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,838
Submitted By: porter jarrard on Mar 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Took Doug forever to complete. Super difficult moves around the corner to the right and up...way out over the bolt. Big falls and small holds. Has it been repeated??? Doug would wait for a big cloud to come and cover the sun for each RP attempt...I could never get around the corner to the holds.


Starts right of HC on the HC ledge.


Several bolts to anchors. May be difficulty descending to Hanging Chain Ledge because of angling line.

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By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 15, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

What an amazing climb. Many moves from the bottom on up and rock quality that gets better the higher you go. The crux had a little crumbly rock around the feet but the upper several cruxes were better and on stellar stone. There were 13 draws to independant anchors up on a ledge above. They were too far up there to get down with one rope. There are currently biners on the top two bolts which is how I lowered down. Using the Hanging Chain anchors only makes sense if you are trying to TR before leading. (Watch your rope ends)

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