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Failed Big Cat Safari 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Charlie Stoker & Laura Stade, 9/12/2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Charlie S on Sep 12, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo. Have I convinced you to climb it yet?

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Wow, that looks like an awesome crack! Let's see if we can find it!

Like searching for the elusive beasts on a safari, so was the hunt for this crack. Ultimately it turned into an interesting meander up the rock, only realizing too late that I had overshot it by about 30 feet.

Who knows, maybe that awesome but short looking crack is only the shadows of the detached flake on Declawed? Another day will tell.

Location 

Start by traversing right from the base of Declawed until lined up with the pine tree. Take the crack through a few jungle thrashes.

Next, acquire a fun finger crack. Make sure it doesn't flake off on you.

On the next ledge, take the large, crystal-crumbling, exfoliating OW. At the top of this, scramble to the tree, set up an upper point, and then downclimb to the top of Declawed.

Is it worth it? Probably not. But it was worth the adventure.

Protection 

Cams to #3. But not too many. The climbing is good but the rock quality is not. Long draws. At the top, sling the tree and downclimb to the declawed anchors. Make sure you leave enough pieces for your second.


Photos of Failed Big Cat Safari Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This looked promising but the promises ended here.
BETA PHOTO: This looked promising but the promises ended here.
Rock Climbing Photo: Laura on the 2nd ascent of Failed Big Cat Safari.
Laura on the 2nd ascent of Failed Big Cat Safari.

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