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Gold Star Canyon
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Factotum 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 270', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J. P.
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on May 7, 2007

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Follow the splitter left of the shallow corner and...

Description 

Start off on top of a rock and reach up to set some small pro. Use features and ledges until you can get high enough to sink fingers in the upward tapering crack (crux). Climb thin fingers to ring locks and all the way up to cupped hands in the lighting bolt crack. Follow crack system until it tapers off, and lieback the shallow corner until there is a ledge for a good foot, then reach to your right to sink into another crack system that also has a good ledge. Climb up and belay at a ledge from two baby angles 150'. Climb past a rotten section of rock to splitter corner that starts out at four inches. Keep plugging up as it goes down to cupped hands, hands, fingers. Belay from two Metolius Rap Hangers. Two 60m ropes, two raps.

Location 

On Tiara Cliff band.

Protection 

Small Ballnuts. Two of everything from small to #0.75 Camalot. Triples of #1s and #2s. 4-5 #3s, 2 #4s.


Photos of Factotum Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Under the reaches of the of the diving board.  A t...
Under the reaches of the of the diving board. A t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the 2nd pitch, Can see the short sec...
Looking up at the 2nd pitch, Can see the short sec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lookin' up at the 1st pitch.
Lookin' up at the 1st pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
The route.

Comments on Factotum Add Comment
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By mandyf
From: grand junction, co
Aug 25, 2010

Been up to Tiara Rado a lot but haven't seen this, where is it located?