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Fact or Friction 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Strege, 2005
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: Mark Orsag on Jun 11, 2017

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Fact or Friction. Not a great route- do it because...

Check NPS for Closures


This is a steep slab. Work your way cautiously up to bolt one through a dark schist band. Then, deal with a horizontal at bolt 2 that isn't as bad as it looks from the ground. Exit schist to the thin granite slab. Crystals are there, but are weirdly oriented and awkward to use. Traverse right, then traverse back left and angle left up a thin seam. When that begins to peter out, look for a darker gray incut (a bit hard to spot) up and a bit back right. It is a big move, but that hold is a surprisingly good crimp. Finish route easily from there. As the name suggests, lots of smearing on this one. A bit sequential, awkward and annoying even for a slab lover like me.


This is the far left (East) route on the wall of the Outer Hall. This route has its own two-bolt anchor. All the rest of the routes (Little White Lies and the Guilty Conscience variations) on the Outer Hall wall go to one anchor on the other side (West) of the Outer Hall wall.


3 bolts/40ft so a bit sporty. Two bolt anchor at top/no chains. First bolt is somewhat high off the ground, but shouldn't be terrifying to get to... A fall from bolt 3 would be quite a bit of an unpleasant ride down a slab, but you wouldn't deck or hit anything major.

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By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
Jun 11, 2017

I climbed this with temps in the 90s and the sun in my eyes-- not ideal to say the least. Felt tough at the grade but not too crazy. Went with guidebook 5.9 rating here. If others want to say 9+ on this, I will change.

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