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Fact of a Door Frame 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Erik Fedor & Fred Knapp
Page Views: 682
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 11, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is another nice little route on the West face of The Box. It is slightly better than Aunt Jennifer's Tigers. Find this just right of Hand Crack, 5.9 and Aunt Jennifer's Tigers, 5.10d. This a pretty, West-facing wall with brilliant green lichens has 3 of the 5 routes of the West face. It has certainly a bit of a hump for an approach, perhaps 45 minutes, but decent variety in the area can make it worth it. This perhaps-slightly more than vertical route is identified by 3 bolts going straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. On our climb, as of 4/11/3, the 4th bolt described by Rossiter seemed to be missing. Maybe, we couldn't count. Rossiter had already noted the 2 pins were missing previously. In its current state, it is a long way to the first bolt. It would be quite exciting clipping the 2nd bolt. This gets 2 stars, by consensus of 2.

    The pins below the 1st bolt seem to be gone. Consider a stick clip for the 1st bolt (perhaps 15 feet up), it is a long ways up and blowing the clip might just ruin your day. Muscle up the overhanging start by walking your feet up the red boulder under the overhang. Get a good spot. Reach up left to a big pebble, then move your right hand up to the big, rough pinch, then move your left hand up to the squared-off-ish edge. Scrunch up and get your feet onto the main wall. Get in balance. Reach up for the 1st clip. Now sidepull/layback a longish edge as you work your feet up on very grippy footholds. Get stable off the edge and make the 2nd clip. I don't recommend blowing this 2nd clip either. From the top of the sidepull/layback edge, move up and right. The climbing becomes less difficult but more balancy. Use the arete and the crack in the dihedral as you work your feet up. Find a good pinch just below the anchor. Clip & rap.

    Rap the route from the 2-bolt anchor which is shared with Aunt Jennifer's Tigers. The right bolt could use a link or something better than the thin, split ring and hollow aluminum rap ring. The left bolt also uses a thin, split ring.


    3 quickdraws plus something for the anchors.

    Comments on Fact of a Door Frame Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 26, 2007
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    You can put bomber small stoppers in before the first bolt. The climb gets 1 star from me. Good movement, but unpleasantly sharp on the tips.
    By Fred Knapp
    Sep 28, 2007

    Yes, I'm a fan of Adrienne Rich. I only remember placing a single knifeblade about mid-route. These were the days of hand-drilling, so we looked for any method to spare the drill.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Sep 13, 2017
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R

    This route seems way harder than 5.11b/c. Wonder if a hold broke off somewhere... anyone done this recently?

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