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The only problem with this area is that you just wish the routes would be longer! Within the course of the same day, you might be fearing death by sunstroke one minute and then become exposed to a cold hyptohermic rain the next minute!!! Bring alot of water, but also rain protection!
Rappel or walk to the base of the slab. It seems most climbers park at the woman's house and follows the faint trail and rocky slabs up to the top of the crag...then rap in for the climbs.
Pitch #1: Really fun positive moves up a low angle short slab with a variety of movement to the bolted chain belay. 5.6.
This short bolted slab route is just to the right (looking up) of other steeper and also probably very recently bolted climbs. It is just to the left of the bushy and dirty quasi gully and you can belay in the shade of the only little tree on that part of the formation.
QDs for 5 bolts and shares the two-bolt chain anchors with the the route to the left.