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Face With Bolt Route 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 22, 2012

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Deb tries the left start before the hold broke off...



This is a very nice route on an aesthetic stretch of rock on the right side of Second Pew of the Pulpit Rock massif. It looks like it has been there a while, since there is some light weathering on the anchor bolts, but it appears someone put it up a while ago. Obviousy, this is not the name of the route, so please let me know if you have more information.

On the right side of the face, there is a smooth, aesthetic chunk of less than vertical granite that beckons. The left edge of this section has a single protection bolt that leads up to connect various bits of thinner crack. The start is the crux near the bolt. Unfortunately, the left start with an undercling is harder after the biggest bit snapped off. The right start utilizing some tips crack moves with thin feet is now the better start. Once you make it into the fingers section of the crack, the footholds are subtle for a stretch. The middle section gives you time to rest. The last section is really nice, knobby granite face climbing.

FWIW, if you want, you can start above the 5.11 bit by going left and onto the tiny pillar, traversing into the middle, moderate section. This makes it 5.10.

There is a 2 bolt anchor now with a bit of rope (2nd one here, since the rodents chewed through the 1st in a week) and biners to facilitate a 85' rap descent.

This is on the fat side of 2 stars.


This is on the left side of the smoother face of the right side of the Second Pew. Approach up to Pulpit Rock, head around the right side, go up a forested slope.


1 bolt, wires, small cams to a #2 Camalot.

Photos of Face With Bolt Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line goes up past the bolt to the 2 bolt ancho...
The line goes up past the bolt to the 2 bolt ancho...

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