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Face of Time S 
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Face of Time 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Anderson
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Colby Wayment on Oct 25, 2013

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Description 

Background: This route was equipped by Mike Anderson, but I don't know if he ever got around to actually climbing it before he moved. If he didn't, then FA is unknown. I just randomly named this the "Face of Time" from a Townes Van Zandt song. If someone knows the correct name, let me know.

Also, this route was erroneously rated 12a in the Schoolroom pamphlet I put out. I believe it to be more like 5.11c.

This route is one of the longer offerings on Schoolroom. It begins just left around the corner from "No Talent Ass Clown," climbing the north face of the large dihedral for 40 feet until ledges are obtained then climbs the west facing wall above NTAC to the top.

The bottom half (north face) climbs up some thought provoking 10+/11- terrain. The upper half provides the crux 5.11 section with close bolts.

It is possible to climb NTAC into the crux wall above, which I would think, would make the whole endeavor a letter grade easier (5.11b) though the crux is the same but the overall feel of the route would be one of less sustained attention. But take that for whatever it's worth. The whole rating stuff...is just personal opinion.


Location 

Right side of the Alcove. Just left of "No Talent Ass Clown" arete.

Protection 

Don't remember. Take a number of draws. Probably 9.


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By TS Burton
From: Ogden, Utah
Oct 27, 2013

I was told that I got the first ascent in March 2007. I named the route 'Quartzshite' and agreed with the 11c rating. At the time it was quite dirty being a new route, but I gave it 2 stars due to the quality of climbing.

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