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Face Full of Bush 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: EVD, Todd Bol, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: tbol on Jun 12, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: What a fun romp.

Description 

Wander up a series of cracks and interesting face holds to a belay near a small bush. This pitch involves a little bush battling, otherwise it has exceptional climbing. Continue up using the crack in the left-facing corner, face holds, and the crack you have in front of you leaving the belay. This pitch is quite long and very enjoyable I thought. The third pitch climbs up easy terrain to a prominent ledge where it is possible to descend to the climber's right down a large gully.

Location 

This climb is actually over near the Bear Tooth according to a photo of Tony Bubb's. There are a few climbs in the area of the pillar leaning on the farthest right slab. I am not sure about any of that FA info, but I am pretty sure we did a new route. If not, someone is welcome to correct me and provide additional beta for the area.... I would appreciate it!

Protection 

The gear on this climb is exceptional. Bring a double rack in hand and fist sizes if 5.7 is near your limit.


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By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb was nicer than expected. Based on Hubbel's book, I think it goes by the name "Chief Hosa" at 5.7+ which felt about right to me.

On the second pitch, we headed straight to the climber's right to get into the big dihedral as soon as possible. It was great, cruiser fun!

The descent was a bit more annoying that I expected...but there were wild raspberries galore!
By tbol
From: Front Range, CO.
Aug 24, 2014

I thought Chief Hosa was maybe a little farther to the right out on the face instead of in the corner, but it is hard to tell. Regardless, great climbing on good rock! Glad you had fun up there.

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