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Face de Rat

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secteur droite 
secteur gauche 

Face de Rat Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 1,248
Administrators: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Zach Alberts on Jan 12, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: Face de Rat

Description 

It's namesake route 'face de rat' is a ceuse classic. This sector is the long, clean, very overhanging and dominating cliffband visable from both parking lots at the col, as well as most of the hike up. It is a long band of cliff and is broken up into 2 parts; secteur gauche and secteur droit. Most of the established routes are either on the extreme left side of the sector or extreme right side, leaving the steep, beautiful, but rather featureless center for the future 9c+ climbers. During the summer, this sector stays in the sun longer than the other sectors, making it better to climb later in the day. .

Getting There 

From the parking follow the trail towards berlin-biographie, once at the cliff, hike climbers left for about 10 or 15 minutes. If coming from the cascade, follow the trail uphill following the cliffband towards berlin-biographie for about 15 minutes.

Climbing Season

For the Ceuse area.

Weather station 30.5 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Face de Rat

Le pozolo 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Europe : France : ... : secteur gauche
Well, not the best route at ceuse by far. I wouldn't say definitly avoid it, but I wouldn't recommend it, especially to climbers just breaking into the 6a+ level. Technical face climbing on good rock leads to a rather insecure crux from a position where falling might not be the best option. After the crux, clip a couple more bolts leading through the roof and then realize that there is no anchor......[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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