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3. The Mid Section
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Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Face Dances  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alain Comeau & Janot Mendler Comeau 1981
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: chinos on May 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Slab in the Face Dances Area

Description 

One of the more popular routes on the slab; most folk skip P1 and P3 and walk up to the tree belay stance at the start of P2. [R Hall added May 2017]

The route (P2) starts on the low angled slab and climbs up through the bulge in the white streak. Clip an older 3/8" bolt at the bulge (crux) and continue up past another (new) 3/8" bolt (which replaced the old 1/4") to a 2 bolt anchor set for rapping. Pitch 3 continues up to the woods on easier climbing. Rap with 2 ropes, even from the 2 bolt anchor.

Alternate/Variation to P1 - see topo in photos

BEWARE the error in the Handren guide that states the 2nd P is 70feet...it's more like 130-140 ft; in any event even a single 70meter rope (115ft doubled) doesn't get you back to the belay from the anchors. It will, however, get you to the old 3/8" single bolt...if you're into that sort of thing.

Location 

The Mid Section

Protection 

rack, bolts


Photos of Face Dances Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: RW thinking over the crux moves at the bolt
BETA PHOTO: RW thinking over the crux moves at the bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: RW approaches Bolt #1 on Face Dances
BETA PHOTO: RW approaches Bolt #1 on Face Dances
Rock Climbing Photo: RW starts off on P2 of Face Dances.
BETA PHOTO: RW starts off on P2 of Face Dances.
Rock Climbing Photo: The seldom-done P1 - Looking up from the path at t...
BETA PHOTO: The seldom-done P1 - Looking up from the path at t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alternate P1, quite a ways (on the path) LEFT and ...
BETA PHOTO: Alternate P1, quite a ways (on the path) LEFT and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo - Alternate P1 for Face Dances
Topo - Alternate P1 for Face Dances

Comments on Face Dances Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

If it wasn't for the somewhat out-of-character quality of the original P1, (5.3-5.4 R/X, with less than stellar rock quality at some of the protection points) this climb would get more stars, the 2nd pitch is really nice. If you only want to do P2, you can reach the belay tree by the path used to access Height-of-Land and Left Side area(s). [See 'getting there' in those areas.]
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 24, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

There's a nicer P1. Take the path down around the 2nd, slimy toe, and continue part way up the watercourse on the left, as if hiking up to the P1 belay (and/or over to Height-of-Land and Left Side). About 25-30 ft up, a ledge with two large "silver" birches marks this alternate START.

Climb about 80 ft, 5.2-5.5 (See topo and photo) A dike-line of small pockets on the right provides possible gear placements, but it's pretty run out. BUT, no more than the original P1.
By John Halupowski
From: Intervale, N.H.
Nov 3, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I first climbed this route in the early 80's and still think it's a very fun climb. Love the scooped holds.

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