f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Minty approach trail (pine tree on right and small...
Peregrine Closure 2017
The closure for peregrine nesting goes from Tough Shift (right end of the Mac Wall), all the way to Immaculate Virgin (just before the Mantel Block, Raunchy and V-3). This includes the entire Guides' Wall area.
Along the Cliff
This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight
, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
, and Northern Pillar
, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box
This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel
, and continues past Beginner's Delight
, Snooky's Return
, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it. Approach: Asphodel
and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks
The main approach for the middle of this area is this trail
, which leads you right up to Minty
, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the Mme G's trail
There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.
The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.
Weather station 2.5 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's):
Tipsy Trees 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Minty 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Hawk 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 290'
Asphodel 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Columbia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Le Teton 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Tetonia 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Featured Route For f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Beginner's Delight 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c New York
: The Gunks
: ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
Alert: Summer, 2016: Yellowjacket hives have been reported at the P1 belay, and higher on P2My personal favorite at this grade. Often very busy though.Start left of Minty: from where the trail hits the cliff, walk about 50' left past the thin crack of Snooky's Return to an obvious right-leaning crack.P1: Either climb the crack (harder) or corners just left to a ledge. Continue up and step right and then up to a good belay (even with the top of Snooky&@...[more] Browse More Classics in New York
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