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Peanut Gallery, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Face in the Crowd T 
Bluff T 
Bolt Run S 
Change UP T 
Coronoid Process T 
Eyes of Silver S 
Finger Grafitti S 
Free Falling S 
Heckler, The S 
Middle Ages T 
Scratchin' Nails TR 
Shootout T 
Tumbling Turmoil  S 
Unknown S 
Witchy Poo T 

Eyes of Silver 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Dick Richardson, Malcolm Jolly 1997.
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on May 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

The right-most climb on the main slab section of the Peanut Gallery, Eyes of Silver is the least steep of the lot and the least featured - true slab climbing.

The second pitch is shorter, steeper, easier and more featured and only really deserves 1 star.

Protection 

pitch 1: 4 bolts to 2 boltspitch 2: 2 bolts.

Rappel off each pitch from the chains on Bolt Run.

The higher portion of the route is a bit runout, but the climbing is much easier as well.


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By Blitzo
Sep 25, 2006

Another slab!
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 13, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Despite the star rating given on this route, it is not only my favorite on the crag, but one of my favorites at Donner. But then again I love slab climbing most of all. If you like this kind of slab you will love the first pitch. Second pitch has some fun moves of the deck and then cools out after ten feet or so. As to the protection, I don't want to be a contrarian, but other than the first move off the deck it is right where you need it. I don't know for sure, but it feels like it was bolted from the ground up, and since it was here, and the bolts looked a little oxidized when I started climbing in '95, I am guessing it went up in the late 80's not 90's. If you like the slab climbs at Grouse Slabs you will like this route!
By Adal Bermann
From: San Diego, California
May 10, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Way nicer than Bolt Run in my opinion. At least there were some features to work with.
By Gordy Ainsleigh
From: Auburn, California
Aug 11, 2017

Back when I was young (42-45) and climbing a lot (1990-92), I met my friend Patrick and his two children here, and set up a top rope so we could play on the first pitches of Eyes of Silver and adjacent Middle Ages. I got into seeing how fast I could do Eyes of Silver, and eventually did two runs to the top in 26 and 28 seconds. Pat told me afterward that his 9-year-old Valerie, who weighed maybe 90 pounds to my 200, gave up on the belay device and was just pulling the rope in hand-over-hand. It's a very fun climb to do over and over, faster and faster. You might want to have two belayers, though, because, if you get fast, there may not be time to use a belay device.

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