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a1. The Uberfall - left
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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Gary Hemming and Claude Suhl (1959)
Page Views: 1,486
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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This is actually an OK route, and there's almost never anyone on it.

Climb the crack (crux) to a horizontal and stance, then continue up the face via the path of least resistance (straight, actually; slightly runout, but fairly easy) to a horizontal just below some overhangs. Traverse right a few feet to a flake system (optional belay). Climb the flake to another horizontal, then traverse right along a crack about 15 feet to a left-facing corner topped by another overhang. Climb the crack, passing the overhang and up the face to the top.

Descend using the Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.


In the Uberfall area, at a 10-foot high crack about 20 feet right of Nosedive.


Standard Gunks Rack.

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By Gunkiemike
Jul 11, 2010

One of many routes that the Swain guide gets totally wrong. Follow those directions and you'll be in scary 5.9 territory at the long overhang.
Jul 12, 2010

Mike, I climbed this route once a few years ago, but I these directions seemed reasonable for what I remember - basically, climb up below the big roof, then keep heading right and up by the line of least resistance. Can you provide some supplemental text ... ?

Edit add - just reclimbed this yesterday, and these directions are right ...
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 29, 2014

I like this climb. It's wandery and fun, enough gear to keep you safe. Fun little corner to climb at the end. Rap off the horseman tree.
By Eric Lutz
Nov 3, 2015

Finally did this one yesterday. Definitely worth doing once when nothing else is open
By Skip Thompson
Apr 15, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This is a highly enjoyable Gunks 5.6 face climb, with the added bonus of being a route-finding challenge. Half the fun is trying to figure out the line.
Rock Climbing Photo: The line of the route arcs up and right like an Ey...
The line of the route arcs up and right like an Eyebrow, to the notch. Plenty of gear.
By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route deserves more stars and traffic than it gets. It is a hidden gem in the busy Uberfall. Interesting opening moves are followed by nice face climbing with some route-finding challenge. Enjoyable traverse and small but interesting overhang add a nice finish. Finding good protection was another puzzle to solve along the way, but I do not feel it deserves PG13.

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