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Eye Sockets Look Down on Chess Board Metals 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alvino Pon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 16, 2003  with updates from Jay Eggleston

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On the lower section with a good view of the entir...

Description 

The route climbs the second arete left of Fogline, just left of the Spy Story corner. Begin about 40' left of Fogline below the arete. The first bolt can be seen about 45' up in a grungy area of rock.

Scramble up 25' to a small grassy ledge. Climb up 10' on grungy rock and place pro (red Alien) to protect a 5.6 move. Clip the first bolt shortly above. Continue up past another bolt in the grungy rock, then move up to the clean arete. Climb the arete, with airy 5.9 to 5.10a moves, to the final steep headwall.

The climbing gets harder here. At the 11th bolt, either continue straight up on small holds, or traverse right to a flared hand crack. I climbed the face right of the crack, using the crack and a small pine tree to the right. The crack variation is about 10c; the line following the bolts looked harder. The anchor bolts are a short distance above.

The leader should belay here and bring up the second, since it would take two ropes to lower.

Descent: With a single 60m rope, rappel 100' to a small ledge, from which you can downclimb (3rd class) 30' to the ground. With two ropes, rappel 130' directly to the ground.

The initial section of this climb is grungy, but the moves are good. The arete is clean and airy. The final headwall could use more cleaning. One star for good moves and good position, but there are some sections of uncleaned rock.

Protection 

One or two cams (.5" to 1.25") and 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The climb is 130' long; bring a 60m rope or two ropes to rappel.


Photos of Eye Sockets Look Down on Chess Board Metals Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Olsen climbing the airy arete.  Photo by Mike ...
Ron Olsen climbing the airy arete. Photo by Mike ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Olsen climbing the crack at the final headwall...
Ron Olsen climbing the crack at the final headwall...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alvino's Arete.  The crux headwall at the top can ...
BETA PHOTO: Alvino's Arete. The crux headwall at the top can ...

Comments on Eye Sockets Look Down on Chess Board Metals Add Comment
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By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2006

Did this after doing the Crooked Cross. Really fun route. Needs to be cleaned up quite a bit. Didn't notice any chipping on the route. Just one spot looked like a small block pulled off though.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 13, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Basically your classic Pon route - ugly, dirty start, odd bolt locations, chipped, etc.... There is a stretch of pretty good climbing on here, but the chipped holds up high kind of killed it.
By George Bracksieck
Aug 28, 2013

Led this today. Placed a #11 Stopper endwise and a #3 or 3.5 Friend before reaching the first bolt. Great climbing once you get to the arete (above 2nd bolt). Didn't see or use any chiseled or chipped or otherwise manufactured holds -- maybe 'cause I climbed to the right of the last two bolts. Until that point, I stayed with the arete. I clipped all 12 bolts. I highly recommend this route.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 11, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I did not notice chipped holds on this. The holds in the crux area are small edges, and it's hard to know how good they will be when you reach for them. This seems like a good, fun route.

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