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Eye of Mordor 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Joel Brady
Season: gets sun
Page Views: 1,723
Submitted By: camhead on Nov 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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The bottom of the dihedral. Climber Ethan Micele.

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Like other routes at First Buttress, this has a series of boulder problems, separated by good rests, and ends in a dihedral.

I gave this a 13a, since that is the traditional grade, but I think that most will find it a bit soft. It is definitely the softest 13 at First Buttress. Originally it was 13b, but the upper dihedral got a drilled pocket, making the redpoint crux significantly easier. If you want the original flavor of the route, go directly from the glued jug to the fingerlock in the corner, skipping the pocket.

After the crux, move left from the corner under a roof, eventually going over it on jugs.


right of Corner Pocket


13 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos of Eye of Mordor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan moves away from the super ledge and continue...
Ethan moves away from the super ledge and continue...

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By Kurtrude
Aug 21, 2017

When pulling the rope at the end of the day on Friday (8/18), somehow, someway, the 10th carabiner came off the chain... We managed to find it in the woods and place it at the base of the climb with a message etched into a rock ("From Bolt #10").

Also, the 9th chains carabiner (I believe the 2nd draw after the no-hands) gate was nearly stuck in place. I plan to replace it with a better biner next time I get on the route, just wanted to give a heads up for the next guy/gal...
By BrianWS
Aug 22, 2017

Those biners have seen constant swapping through the season - a testament to the quality and now popularity. Some steel biners have been replaced with fresher aluminum, but on a busy weekend, this route gets red river traffic. If projecting, not a bad idea to donate a bit of fresh (And well installed) hardware behind.
By Jacob Sustrich
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The biner on the 7th perma is in bad shape - the gate is near impossible to open and stays completely open if you don't manually close it. I tried to replace it but it's ziptied to the chains. If you're feeling charitable, take up something to chop the ties and donate a new biner. Otherwise just be ready for a gnarly clip.
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
4 days ago

Replaced the sketchy biner in question with a nice wiregate. All the others opened/closed fine so I didn't replace anything further.

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