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Psychobabble Wall
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Enemy Within, The S 
Eye in the Sky T,TR 
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Eye in the Sky 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Paul Smith, Pokey Amory, and Jim Karn 1986
Page Views: 1,916
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Nope PC:TheReal_MarkEvans

Description 

Fantastic route with bolts where its harder and tcu's where its easier. Sport climbers need to come and do this thing! The crux is stellar and unique. It is very easy to TR this as it shares anchors with Psychobabble. This makes it easy to headpoint and work it out till you feel comfortable leading it. That's what I had to do anyway.

Protection 

TCU's or aliens, draws


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Rock Climbing Photo: Eye in the sky
 PC: TheReal_MarkEvans
Eye in the sky PC: TheReal_MarkEvans

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By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Aug 30, 2012

Scary for sure. Only 2 bolts to get you to the final headwall, and the cracks you have available are pretty shallow and thin. I use 2 red c3's, purple tcu, and a green c3. the moves at the top are pretty hard, and its R to the anchor after the last bolt.(at least I couldn't find anything worth placing). I guess the gear would hold... Still headpointing this one.
By tenesmus
Aug 30, 2012

How can it be R if there is no possible way to fall and hit something? Once you get to the second to the last bolt you can have the TR belay tie off with a bunch of slack and then start taking the whipper for the upper crux. They're super safe falls and part of the process for figuring it out.

I never could make myself fall on the gear in the middle but then its easy .10 climbing till you get to the bolt in the middle. Its tempting to rest after that (super fun) .11 crux in the middle on those huge jugs. But staying there for very long was too costly for me.
By Zak123
Oct 28, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

My favorite BCC lead. Really good stuff. Belay from the two rap anchors at the base of The Enemy Within and don't fall before the first bolt or you may have a fun tumble down the ramp.

Get after it. :)
By Paul Lanz
Dec 13, 2016

Lead this back in the late 80's and seem to remember there being some RP or very small nut placements after the last bolt, unfortunately I was too pumped to hang out and bother with it and just sprinted to the top... Great route!

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