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Eye for an Eye 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1982?
Page Views: 773
Submitted By: rob pizem on Jan 4, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Right after the wide beginning.

Description 

Start up any of the routes next to Make the Grade, and head up the right crack to the anchors. It begins off about 6 inches from the main ledge and then narrows down to 1 inch and then back to 5 inch as you head to the anchor. The rock is good the gear is good, and the climb is fun!

Location 

This is to the right of Make the Grade.

Protection 

The upper half can take a 1 six inch, 2 five inch pieces (one for the bottom and one for the top), and singles from 0.5 to 3 inches.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 23, 2017
By Kangaru Rat
From: Under a Rock
Jan 11, 2017

Rob – You’re only off by 35 year on the FA. Not only is this climb in Bjornstad’s guide, but it’s also noted in a comment on MP for the climb to the left.

It would be good to do some research before making claims. Yea, you may need to spend time, and even money to buy the old guide.
By slim
Administrator
Jan 11, 2017

Yeah, I am pretty sure I have climbed this before. Is there a crack on the left side of that flake/block that goes up to an anchor? I can't really remember it all that well though.

If it remotely looks like a crack that is better than 1 star, I pretty much guarantee it has been climbed, particularly in that general area of the canyon.
By rob pizem
Jan 15, 2017

Sorry, I don't have too many guidebooks, so I didn't know it had been climbed. I assumed it had, but with no anchors and junk rock to the top, it didn't make sense not to have anchors at the top of the best rock. I am glad someone climbed it a long time ago and that the first ascent is theirs. As for the name, whatever it is is fine with me. I just want people to know there is a nice 5.10 there.
By Kangaru Rat
From: Under a Rock
Jan 16, 2017

So, what you’re saying Rob is that it’s OK to be ignorant and that you’re too lazy to do the research. Guidebook authors – and by posting routes you are an author - have a responsibility to assimilate available information as a base before adding to or improving on that information. You say you “don’t have too many guidebooks” (and in another recent post “don’t have too much time to find the book”) which are poor excuses, and as a result you choose to post incorrect information. You were even told where to find pertinent information on this climb and didn’t bother to click one climb away, read what others have provided, and make changes accordingly. Get it right! BTW, in addition to being in Bjornstad’s 1988 guide, it’s in Green’s 2010 Colorado Guide. Are you posting as a public service or to increase your presence to impress your sponsors?
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Jan 16, 2017

Yeah, sponsors eat that shit up. Half-pitch 5.10s, I mean.

Yikes! Somebody woke up grumpy....
By Dave Meyers
From: Golden, CO
Jan 16, 2017

Kangaru Rat wrote " So, what you’re saying Rob is that it’s OK to be ignorant and that you’re too lazy to do the research. Guidebook authors – and by posting routes you are an author - have a responsibility to assimilate available information as a base before adding to or improving on that information. You say you “don’t have too many guidebooks” (and in another recent post “don’t have too much time to find the book”) which are poor excuses, and as a result you choose to post incorrect information. You were even told where to find pertinent information on this climb and didn’t bother to click one climb away, read what others have provided, and make changes accordingly. Get it right! BTW, in addition to being in Bjornstad’s 1988 guide, it’s in Green’s 2010 Colorado guide. Are you posting as a public service or to increase your presence to impress your sponsors?"

Mr. Rat,
It seems like you care about FA information. So why don't you "spend" your time here updating that info instead of trolling. If you did, maybe these long forgotten cracks with shrubbery for anchors would be left alone, but it appears that the only thing you've contributed recently is spray from under your rock about how hard you used to be; talk is cheap.
Furthermore, I doubt Rob posted this 5.10 to fluff up his resume. At least he's working to positively impact the Western Slope climbing community in multiple ways. The next time you crawl out from under your rock, why don't you say those things to Rob's face instead of hiding behind your online persona. I doubt you will, because then everyone would know you as the d-bag that you are acting like here.
By slim
Administrator
Jan 16, 2017

I don't think it is unreasonable to do a small amount of investigating before posting routes as FAs, particularly at areas with a fairly long climbing history. I think the main thing that people are getting agitated about is posting some of the other routes that are on private property.

I don't think it is unrealistic to expect that a sponsored climber with a significant presence do a small amount of homework before claiming FAs, posting routes that are on private property, etc. The folks who have climbed in this area for a long time have put some effort into keeping the relationship between climbers and the folks who live in the canyon in good shape. It doesn't take much to ruin it for everybody.
By Dave Meyers
From: Golden, CO
Jan 17, 2017

Mr. Slim,
I do think it's unreasonable for a bunch of anonymous cowards to attack the integrity of first class dude, sponsored or not. It seems pretty obvious that you don't know Rob and his level of involvement with the local community. He was awarded Mesa County school district's teacher of the year for his work with at-risk students which clearly requires selfish, arrogant, self-promotion as your homie Mr. Rat suggests. I find it ironic that you claim access issues are at the center of the slander, while making comments on the home page about starting a bolt war. Once again, you mention folks with long histories building relationships with the locals without mentioning their names or adding their FA information so that the next generation can keep those positive relationships intact. So, chop away, Mr. Slim, because we all know what its all about; a bunch of old timers trying to keep an area to themselves.
By slim
Administrator
Jan 18, 2017

Umm, I have actually been friends with Rob for almost 25 years and have a lot of respect for him. Thus, when I get a bunch of emails from fired up folks, it is a bit awkward....

I don't really think that asking somebody to remove the bolts from a sensitive area to be a big battlecry or anything. I also don't really think that asking folks to remove bolts they have added to previously existing lines to be that un-reasonable.

As you have noted, the main page discusses some of these issues - so it's not like the issues are new or unknown.
By Dave Meyers
From: Golden, CO
Jan 18, 2017

Posting public comments that justify Mr. Rat's response is neither respectful nor friendly. I don't know why these issues have to be handled in such a destructive way with an expectation that something will change. I will, however, stick up for my friend when he's being harangued for trying to post up information in an attempt to share this great area with others.
By slim
Administrator
Jan 18, 2017

I don't see why you are upset with me about it. I think my responses have been pretty straightforward, even-handed, and factual.
By Nick Niebuhr
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 23, 2017

Back to the topic of access to guidebooks, is there an easy-ish way to get that Desert Rock book anymore, because I can't seem to find it, and I'd love to have/see a copy to look at the climbs in Escalante that aren't on Mtn Proj?

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