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Lost Eye to the Moon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
D&D 2 T 
Eye For an Eye S 
Fiddlin' Buckaroo S 
Once you go poodle you don't go back S 
Replikator  S 
Rhythm on the Range S 
Riders of the Purple Sage S 
Rootin' Tootin' Rhythm  S 
Zig Zag T 

Eye For an Eye 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tim Standing, Sheryl Bennett 2007
Page Views: 2,499
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jun 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Bryson (at 6 years old) climbs Eye for an Eye, in ...

Description 

5.6** to first anchor. Start several feet right of "Riders of the Purple Sage" Climb passing 5 bolts, move right crossing "Lone Ranger" to the first anchor.
5.7*** To second anchor. Face climbing passes 7 more bolts to anchor, 115'.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of Eye For an Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryson Fienup climbs Eye For an Eye (5.7) in the A...
Bryson Fienup climbs Eye For an Eye (5.7) in the A...
Rock Climbing Photo: beautiful daY
beautiful daY
Rock Climbing Photo: @ the top
@ the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun Day
Fun Day
Rock Climbing Photo: Owen and Nomi on the first pitch.
Owen and Nomi on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Swan near the top of "Eye for an Eye&qu...
Steve Swan near the top of "Eye for an Eye&qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Locker standing around on "Eye for an Eye&quo...
Locker standing around on "Eye for an Eye&quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Eye For an Eye". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Eye For an Eye". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Eye For an Eye Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 31, 2016
By splitclimber
Feb 9, 2011

over a year ago i saw a note on tape on the first bolt about no anchors.

does anyone know the status of both anchors? I know there was some bolt replacement work last season.

thx.
By splitclimber
Mar 23, 2011

new anchors have been installed. we got off route and finished up to the top to the right of I4I anchors - maybe 5.8/9.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Today, (4/17/11) we climbed riders of the purple sage, but noted the second bolt was missing its hanger on eye for an eye.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
May 29, 2011

As of yesterday, the second bolt is still missing its hanger.
By Aaron Slaven
From: Fresno, CA
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

2nd bolt still missing hanger - 6/18/11
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hanger still missing - stud appears solid.
We led Riders and clipped the 3rd bolt of Eye on lower and pulled the rope and had a top rope up to there to protect the start. Cinching a nut on there would work too.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Feb 18, 2013

Clipped hanger-equipped P1 2nd bolt on 2/16/2013.

The second pitch anchor, as depicted in the new Bishop Area Rock Climbs and in topo photo here, can clearly be seen from the ground. Only 3 bolts on P2 lead to that anchor actually, as in one doesn't cross the highest crack climbing up and right onto the slab face with 4 more bolts that lead to the summit. A subtle bulge obscures the view of this P2 anchor the whole way once one is on the route. Instead of saying either 3 bolts to that lower P2 anchor or 7 bolts to the summit topside rap anchor, that book says 12 bolts for the second pitch and the route description here says 7 bolts to the lower P2 anchor shown in topo photo, both incorrect. Other bolted routes exist to the right of Eye For An Eye, rated 5.8 to 5.9. The aforementioned top 4 bolts leading to the summit seem to be the finish of the adjacent route immediately to the right, as the face climbing to the summit felt a tad harder than 5.7. But, hey, shoot for the summit if comfortable with that, for the extra climbing and nice view up top.

Distance from summit to ground is more than 120 ft, as rapping with our 70 m rope did not reach the ground. Straightforward though to get back to first pitch anchor and do a second rap from there to the ground.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

All well equipped now. No mussy hooks at the top of the second pitch only links. We chose to rap the route - two raps. Tremendous second pitch which gets more and more though provoking as it steepens towards the top - great views when sitting on top bringing up the second, that's why I did it that way -- just to ponder a while.

Looks like I took Sean's option, crossing rightwards over the crack and shooting for the top - I think that's the way to go but yes harder than 5.7.
By Dreifert
From: Foothill Ranch, CA
Mar 25, 2013

Nice view from the top. Linked both pitches and did two raps with 60m to get down. Both anchors looked great.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 8, 2016

Today we climbed to the top anchor shown in the Bishop Area Rock Climbs book and in this topo. This variation has only 9 or 10 bolts, not 12 as indicated in the guide book. When we tried to lower off on a 70m rope, we ended up fully 20 feet short -- it is not possible to lower off with a 70 as the guidebook claims.

Terrific route though! There is one thought-provoking move well above the 8th bolt.
By Dan Bielinski
Apr 3, 2016

Lowered with an 80m rope with just a bit to spare.
By Beau Griffith
From: Fresno, CA
Dec 31, 2016

Guidebook is indeed misleading; the second pitch certainly does not have 12 bolts. Unsure the exact distance to lower directly to ground from summit but sounds as though it's even longer than 35m. I was easily able to lower my second back to P1 anchors directly after sending, rig a quick rappel down to them and set up a rappel from P1 anchors to reach bottom. Long story short a lot of options to get down safely, choose your favorite.

Additionally this is the only climb I've seen in Lost Eye without mussy hooks at the top, so bring runners and lockers. The anchors at the top of P2 do not make for a very comfortable top belay so perhaps belay from waist indirectly.

Outstanding climb to practice multipitch for new leaders or teams. Great view from the top.

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