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Eye Candy 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 457
Submitted By: nbrown on Sep 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

This is one of the finest crimpy slab routes in Pisgah! It does seep, but is typically dry in the afternoon around the time the wall enters the shade.

Start by climbing a somewhat dirty, but short and easy right facing corner to the roof. Move right a few feet and get pro under roof -- be sure to sling it long. From here, make cruxy moves up and left to a jug and a bolt. Step up and left to a small ledge at a left facing/arching corner.

From here step back right (a different route moves left) and climb excellent small crimps past a few more bolts.

At the 4th bolt, move back left and up to a ledge (the "Hook Up" finishes up the righthand groove). Climb the the crimpy left side of the wide streak/groove (crux) to a point at which it's possible to step right into the groove. A couple optional small tcu placements protect the section up to the anchor.

Note: The route can barely be rappelled with one 60 m rope but watch your ends! A 70 meter rope works best on all of the routes in this area.

Location 

On the right side of Upper Wall area. Look for the brown reddish colored streak -- see picture.

Protection 

7 bolts and gear up to a # 1 camelot.


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