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3. Albion
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dipper TR 
Cecret Saddle TR 
Extrovert TR 
Extrovert Upper TR 
Glory Gulch TR 
Little Dipper TR 
Pillar East TR 
Pillar Left TR 
Pillar Right T,TR 
Sidewinder TR 
So Long TR 


YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: kenr on Dec 31, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Albion sector: A - Extrovert Upper B - Little Dipp...


Variety of moves and rock situations.

Start up the center of the gully. About two-thirds of the way up, find a big foothold on right side of center-line, just at the bottom of where the gully get choked with grass + dirt. Step across left, then up the Left wall of gully to the right (east) edge of the main mid-platform of the Baldy sector.
. Variation: Perhaps easier to stay more in the center of the gully - (less interesting).

Next step right across the top the gully to the left (southwest) edge of the base platform of the Albion upper slab. Mount a big flake (joining the Extrovert Upper route), then up the arete to the top.
. Variation: (instead of stepping across the gully) From the right end of Baldy mid-platform go up slab directly to the arete - (more aesthetic line, but less fun climbing).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).


Below the main Albion base platform, the gully to the left of the East wall of the pillar, below the exposed gap between the main mid-platform for the Baldy sector and the main platform for the Albion slab.

For Top-Roping can lower in from the usual top anchor for Albion which is about 30 feet above the main platform at the base of the upper slab.

Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the Albion base platform left (west) across the Baldy sector main mid-platform, then up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.

Or shorter but more slippery and less fun, could try scrambling difficulty 4th class) down northeast - east - southeast down from the Albion base platform, down around the east side of the pillar to reach its bottom.


Top-Roping: see directions for top anchor for Albion area.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos of Extrovert Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...
BETA PHOTO: Baldy sector + Albion pillar: A - High Rustler B -...

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