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5. The Beard
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breakneck TR 
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 
Directe de la Momie TR 
Extrême Bec TR 
Fiddlers Elbow TR 
Inner Cheek TR 
Iron Bridge TR 
Louse, The TR 
Masada Lite TR 
Nose Hair TR 
Rough Skin TR 
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 
Stubbl TR 
Tick, The TR 

Extrême Bec 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The Beard : SE face of L boulder overview of route...

Description 

Interesting moves on the arete, but it's not clear how to keep it interesting after that.
. (So likely only worth doing if doing other routes on the Right boulder and can quickly figure out how to set up top-rope without danger of sideways swing).

Up the vertical arete, then gentler slab above.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

. . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

. . (The print guidebook 2011 edition by Jon Crefeld has a boulder problem called "Splitter" somewhere around here, but not sure exactly what it is).

. . . ? name of this route ? . . .

Location 

On the Right one of the two Beard boulders, at the arete by the bottom of the gully which is between the NorthWest face and its (overhanging) South face.

- - > see on this route photo

Protection 

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

warning: It's tricky to set up top-rope in a way that avoids dangerous sideways swing if the climber falls.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


Photos of Extrême Bec Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Beard - SW + ENE face of L boulder  and WSW fa...
BETA PHOTO: The Beard - SW + ENE face of L boulder and WSW fa...

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