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Eagle's Head Buttress
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Extra-Terror-Estrial T 
Twilight Tower/Boner Jamz Extension , The T 


YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Cole Lawrence, Conor Dysinger, Peter Caracciolo
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: petercaracciolo on Feb 15, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo


This is one rowdy route! Bring your head game! Climbs two of Mill's best features: the imposing mega arch up under the giant roof and the E.T. Roof finger crack on the upper headwall of Eagle's Head Buttress. Gear is good when you have it, spicy climbing the entire way! Harden up and get it! This is what night terrors are made of!

Pitch 1-(5.11) Start on the face right of the arch, looking for some bolts. Delicate climbing will join you with the imposing, blocky arch at about 30' up. Stem, twist, body wedge, and ninja your way through the arch to the small horizontal roof. Clip the bolt the fire over to the anchors. Insane pitch. Props to CL for putting this up ground up.
Pitch 2-(5.10) Whew! This pitch is even scary to follow! Traverse left out from under the mega roof, aiming at the edge. Tread lightly here. Establish yourself on the face and pull the bulge to the anchors. Keep it together and DFU.
Pitch 3-(5.10) Follow the incipient weakness straight up with just enough gear. As the steepness eases continue climbing up and left towards the obvious right facing corner above.
Pitch 4-(5.10) Climb the steep corner, following the bolt right at the top (same corner as pitch 4 of Boner Jamz).
Pitch 5-(5.12-) E.T. Roof pitch. Wow! Amazing, over-hanging finger crack! Good pro and a few decent rests. Once over the lip, climb up and left on little pro. Don't miss the pod!


Follow the Upper Tier until you are standing below the mega arch.


1 set Stoppers, 2 sets cams .33″-3″, TCU/Aliens, RP's

Photos of Extra-Terror-Estrial Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The last clip is a piton that would almost definit...
BETA PHOTO: The last clip is a piton that would almost definit...
Rock Climbing Photo: No hands rest!
BETA PHOTO: No hands rest!
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew taking on the first pitch
Andrew taking on the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Topo
BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo

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By Harrison Schutt
From: Missoula, MT
Aug 16, 2017

Andrew and I climbed the first 3 pitches of Eagle's Head Direct to link up with Boner Jamz. It was great climbing on pretty loose rock, which made things quite spooky. I didn't lead pitch 1 or 2, but pitch 1 certainly felt easier (or at least less sustained) than pitch two.

Pitch two was pretty terrifying even for me to watch. The runout from a gnarly looking old piton to the bolt isn't super hard, but the rock quality is not inspiring. After the bolt, both of us got pretty gripped climbing to the chains and felt it was at least 5.10+ even though it was short.

P3 and 4 were cleaner and less scary than the others, but had their fair share of loose stuff. Good fun, and easily protected.

It should clean up nicely with traffic! Thanks bunch to the guys who put it up!

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