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Drive-By Crag
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Extra Backup 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Hume, 1996
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Sep 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Flanked by long, beautiful classics like Hakuna Matata and Fire and Brimstone, Extra Backup is neither striking nor long- hence it gathers dust and spider webs.

Start on some weird pockets and work up and right to a decent hold below the next bulge. A tough boulder problem on thin edges and a shallow pocket undercling gains a shelf and a no hands rest.

Layback the vertical edge and move right along more thin edges that lead over a small bulge to a tough clip(crux!).

Just as your crimp strength is fading, a good hold a the base of a flaring crack appears. When you are recovered, negotiate the crack and some small crimps for couple of bolts until you reach better holds.

The final 25 feet of this climb is 5.10 so just hang in there and you should find yourself clipping the chains with no need for extra backup.

Location 

On the left side of Drive-by just left of Fire and Brimstone. Look for the route with anchors that aren't at the top of the wall.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Currently has carabiners at the anchors.

Disregard the claim that this route has well-spaced bolts. The route felt safe and wasn't scary.


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