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Extended Evil 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Mike Orr
Page Views: 2,514
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 20, 2008

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Description 

Combines the lower cruxes of Doctor Evil with the crux of Illness/Extended Illness. Awesome linkup of two classic lines. Probably not a whole lot harder than Doctor Evil but the second crux certainly requires a bit more endurance. As stated below, originally the line was pushed directly up to the crux of Extended Illness, skipping the kneebar rest on Chronic. Although both are logical lines, moving into the kneebar curtails the difficulty a bit.

Location 

Heads left from Dr. Evil after the crux moves via thin climbing, then finishes as for Illness/Extended Illness.

Protection 

Bolts, currently (and usually) fixed. Otherwise, probably about 15-16 quickdraws.


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By Ben Gilkison
Jan 30, 2014

I've heard the FA party that originally graded this 14b climbed a slightly more direct bouldery move into the Extended Illness crux and avoided the obvious knee bar...and also took the climb to the Lizard King (i.e. the top anchor). I think most people have used the obvious rest and stopped at the Extended Illness anchor. Done this way I think 14a, just like Dr. Evil. IMO.
By Mike Orr
Jun 13, 2017

I climbed this thing first. Erik sent Dr. Evil and I did this the day before or maybe the same day. I didn't go over to chronic and climbed way to the top. I didn't think it was harder than Dr. Evil but good route.
By Drewsky
Jun 13, 2017

Thanks for the first hand info, Mike. I went ahead and deleted my other stupid comment about the original line and updated the route description. I wonder if this gets climbed much these days? It's a really good route.

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