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The Chapel Wall
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Berlin Wall S 
Chockblock Chimney T 
Controlled Burn T 
Cosmic Debris T 
Double Dragon T 
Drive By Shooting S 
Exploited T 
Fly-Girls T 
Gold Dust T 
Great Escape, The S 
Heathenistic Pursuit T 
Home-Boys S 
Lighten Up S 
Max Deviator S 
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Mr. Pinkeyes S 
New Wave S 
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 
Pink Panther S 
Rock-Shock S 
Scattered Youth T,TR 

Exploited 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pete Takeda and Cade Lloyd (1989)
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: Bryan G on May 29, 2016

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the first route you'll come to when you walk up the trail to the "Chapel Wall Left" area. Just before you reach the base of Heathenistic Pursuit, turn left and follow the trail up the sandy hillside. Exploited is the thin crack system near the outside arete of a big right-facing corner. Rock-Shock is the bolted line just to the left. Start on the right side of the arete and do a V2 boulder problem to gain the crack around left. Follow the discontinuous crack and arete and then finish on some sinker finger jams.

This used to be super dirty, but I took a wire brush to it, replaced the anchor bolts, and trundled a 3ft block from the ledge at the top, so the climb is good-to-go now. I think this is actually one of the better climbs at Chapel Wall. It's short, but the climbing is sustained. It has excellent rock, cool moves, great position near such a steep arete, and the burly start will keep the riff raff away.

Protection 

Pro to 1.5", mainly finger size and smaller.


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By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
May 29, 2016

If you're wondering why the anchor is a few moves above the ledge, it's because you used to clip it while standing on the detached block. After giving said block the shove-off, I thought about just chopping the old anchor and drilling a new one a few feet lower, but ultimately I decided to reuse the original holes and keep the anchor where it was.

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