REI Community
Exploding Energy Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Exploding Energy Shard T 
Plague of Flies S 
Reality Check S 

Exploding Energy Shard 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Matthias Holladay & Dan Hatfield
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Climb scar past a drilled angle.

Protection 

bolt/fp used to get to flattop to gain access for numerous TR's we set up way back when . . .


Comments on Exploding Energy Shard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Jul 9, 2015

I suppose the drilled angle and bolt? are long gone?
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

The drilled angle and bolt/washer are still there. There's some old 1/2" webbing tied around the hangerless bolt. The bigfoot guide shows another bolted route around the corner by the ocean called "Holladay O U Rock." Any insight on that one?

Edit: I checked out "Holladay O U Rock" today, it has a hangerless smashed bolt and a chopped bolt. Oh well. Still curious the history though.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 30, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

I led this one today. WILD! Once is enough. The gear is ancient and not trustworthy. R/X rated. Crux is just after the rusted out piton moving left on flexing/exfoliating flake crimps with no feet. After looping the hangerless bolt I lassoed the sketchy block over my head with a large sling and mantled out left.

It's wild to think back to when this was the "easy way up." It would be a fun access route if the gear wasn't so.... "historic"
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 2, 2015

I have no idea what Holladay OU Rock means.
Feel free to replace pro on E.E.S., if you're so inclined. Enjoy!
By Evan Wisheropp
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

The Bigfoot Climbing Guide lists a route, route #31, as "Holladay O U Rock (?) FFA: Matthias Holladay '91" with three bolts (saw one chopped bolt and hammered/sabotaged hangerless bolt). Pretty much everything in that guide is wrong... It's to the right of Plague Of Flies on your top rope wall. I was just curious really, it's a very flattering name ha!
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 16, 2015

Been racking my brain, trying to find that box of old slides...if the old bolts are the same as on the Holladay-Ludwig route, then it's mine, otherwise IDK...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About