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Experimental Forrest 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool, and Wade Forrest on the direct finish
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Tradiban on May 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: The start.


From across canyon this line is hard to miss on the climbers right side of the wall. It takes an obvious crack line up the left side of a large pillar formation. This physical pitch starts with an in your face hand crack crux past an OW pod (one bolt, 5.9+). Continue up the hand crack using the finger crack on the left when convenient. Eventually the pillar starts the get blocky, and this is your cue to start moving left. Traverses left to a boulder problem with two bolts and a surprisingly juggy finish.


Climbers right of Rapture, rap in to an inside corner with a bolted belay. From the top there's a prow of rock sticking out, rap from the left side for Experimental Forrest (if looking out into the canyon) and the right side for Rapture.


Three bolts, a few hand size pieces and maybe a purple TCU to protect the traverse.

Photos of Experimental Forrest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: James, setting up for a big, reachy move right.
James, setting up for a big, reachy move right.
Rock Climbing Photo: James, working through the 5.9 hand crack section.
James, working through the 5.9 hand crack section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin P., cleaning it up.
Kevin P., cleaning it up.
Rock Climbing Photo: James Q Martin moving into the airy .10+ direct fi...
James Q Martin moving into the airy .10+ direct fi...

Comments on Experimental Forrest Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 30, 2012

A good, physical line with an exciting finish.
By Wade Forrest
May 31, 2012

I used a grey ghost with a purple tcu slotted on top of it to protect the traverse, makes it pretty bomber. I spent alot of time removing death blocks from the top of the pillar but did not clean what is referred to as the alternate finish. So heads up if choosing that path. I took the route left in order to create a clean, safe & varied experience. Thanks for posting!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 31, 2012

'Grey ghost' ha! Love it
By Tradiban
May 31, 2012

Yes, the easy finish had some potential loose stuff, take care when going that way.

Looks like some pretty sweet thin crack lines in between this and Rapture, any info on those?
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 21, 2015

I love this climb. i'd just go ahead and bring singles plus what you want for 25 feet of hands. It protects like a dream. Description makes it sound like a couple 2's and a small cam will protect the 50 feet that are not bolted. You do the math. The grey rock and lateral movement on this climb and phantasm will inhabit your dreams.
By Jed G
Sep 1, 2017

I think I climbed part of this route in 2008ish before the bolts. same start to top of hand crack then across the face to the left and into the right facing dihedral and crack which kept it at 5.9. We called it "Bat or Rattlesnake?" (just for reference) because of something that was making an unnerving rattling sound in the crack. I'm psyched to go back and try Experimental Forrest. Looks like an interesting variation!

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