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Exotic Dancer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Keith Fiedorowicz
Page Views: 619
Submitted By: sarcasm on Apr 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

Low bolt can be used for belay anchor as the gully is kind of sketchy with loose rocks. Begin in the crack, climb to the face and then straight up just to the right of the roof. Anchor is just to the right.

Location 

Thrombosis Gully, far left climb

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


Comments on Exotic Dancer Add Comment
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By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 11, 2014

Why bolt a route if you're not going to put an anchor on it?? This is not a multipitch. A two bolt anchor is not acceptable. I hate leaving gear just to be able to rap off a mediocre climb.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

What's up with this route? what is un acceptable about a two bolt anchor? In Alaska, take everything with a grain of salt, a lot of these routes were bolted 20 years ago and the ethics were different. Bring some webbing and a rap ring.
By Taylor-B.
From: Valdez, AK
Aug 22, 2014

I would recommend belaying from and climbing up the first three bolts of Sex On The Rocks and then traversing left into Exotic Dancer. This provides a protected belay stance and adds a few extra feet of climbing.
By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
May 8, 2016

Climbed today and the anchors were fine. Hard to see until you get up over the ledge, but two good bolts with two rap rings each, see no problems or issues with this anchor.
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Jun 29, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

^^^ Agree climbed last week looks like two newer bolt anchors with rap rings (maybe they were recently added?)

FWIW I really liked this climb had some fun moves on it!

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