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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Gould & Tony Agulara, 1994/5
Page Views: 1,677
Submitted By: M. Morley on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Chad Parker passing the ceiling on Exodus 5.11a Wh...


One of the best routes at Wheeler. Fun and well-protected climbing on soft sandstone. A 5.10b "R" variation heads straight up from fourth bolt. A new route called Sunshine Dust Bunnies cuts left at the first bolt.

Starts left of the lower tunnel above the creekbed. Don't let the honking cars distract you.


8 protection bolts to chain anchor.

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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 23, 2006

8 bolts.

Most climbers skip the last bolt and exit up and right on an obvious crack/small-corner. Doing so reduces the route to just 5.10+. Hanging with the thin edges and clipping the last bolt feels more like 5.11b, unless you find the secret jug located way out left.

Be advised that the rock on this route is quite soft. Though the protection bolts are tightly spaced, all should be treated cautiously. More than one of them can be wiggled in their holes.

Gaining the first bolt requires 25 feet or so of awkward and unprotected climbing (5.7?). A #1 and #3 TCU protect this section nicely.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Nov 20, 2007

I second the opinion that staying left on the last few bolts raises the grade quite a bit. Going direct makes most sense given the logic of the features, but the bolt line offers a seemingly different--yet compelling--line of travel.

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