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Bulkhead Arete T 
Exiled in Sweden T 

Exiled in Sweden 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: S. Strong, T. Michael, T. Gordon, & A. Bartlett, 12/89
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 4, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: The Bulkhead in the sun just left of center..

Description 

Ascend the north face past three bolts on nice rock. The distance between bolts is significant; definitely not a sport route. At the third bolt go left and then back right up to the top. A direct finish above the third bolt is 5.12- (on TR).

Protection 

Three bolts and one #3 TCU in a horizontal between the second and third bolts. Medium cams and long runners to sling horns work well for an anchor. Walk off to the left (east).


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By Murf
Apr 6, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Line is not obvious at all at third bolt, going left ( and downish ? ) is counterintuitive. The fall from the direct line is less than attractive ( take my word for it ). I'd rate the direct finish .11+ maybe?

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