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Exile 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brett Ruckman, et al
Page Views: 1,561
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001

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  • Description 

    Locate the gap between Fiddle Head and the Upper Ridge and check out the east facing wall, this is Exile...Four bolts ascend the steep slab start on rock that, at first inspection, appears to be totally devoid of holds. Once at the third bolt you will realize that its only mostly devoid of holds. Do a trick reach move, clip bolt 4 and shake out at the rest(11c). Power up through the next 2 bolts (crux) clip the pin and go to the anchor...Bad rope drag when lowering!!!

    Protection 

    6 bolts, 1 peg, 0.5 tricam (or equivalent optional between #4+5), and a 2 bolt anchor (set way far back).


    Comments on Exile Add Comment
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    By Bret Ruckman
    Sep 10, 2017

    The hardware has now been upgraded to 1/2 inch stainless, with a slightly lower top anchor to help with rope drag. The second bolt is not visible from the belay stance/staging area at the base of the route, but don't despair--it is there. A 2 inch piece sets a nice first anchor for the belayer at the base. Higher up, at the horizontal crack/rest above the 4th bolt, bring several cams (or Tricams) in the 1/2 to 1 inch range. I want to thank Mark Roth for doing the lion's share of the work on re-bolting this, and hopefully revitalizing this excellent route.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Sep 11, 2017

    Huge thanks to the ASCA for providing the hardware, and thanks to OSMP for allowing the upgrade.

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