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Hemingway Buttress (West Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Express T 
Execution Time T 
Layaway Plan TR 

Execution Time 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, 4/01
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: Murf on Oct 5, 2009

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An interesting route on the lonely West face of Hemingway Buttress. Start on scruffy rock, picking one of two branches of an inverted V crack. Continue up the face clipping bolts until moving left to a nice seam. From there trend left and up to the anchor.


The West face of Hemingway may be best seen/approached from the down climb of Freeway Wall. You can also approach around the left side of the east face, circling around to the back of the formation.

This route is just left of American Express, and is the only bolt line on the buttress. The picture on Pg. 326 in Joshua Tree West is slightly off, it takes the right crack of the V, while the left seems nicer. The bolt line is also too far left in the picture.

Listed as 5.11d in the JTW, the path of least resistance seems more like 5.11-.


Pro to 2 inches, 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (70' rap).

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