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Reservoir Wall
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Excuse Station 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 14,411
Submitted By: Joe Collins on May 25, 2001

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Christian Gauderer giving it some corn.

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be done with one 60m rope.


    A mess of #1 Camalots (or 2 and 2.5 friends), as well as a couple .75 camalots (maybe a .5 too) for the crux at the top. A #2 camalot was barely too big to fit.

    Photos of Excuse Station Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Did this route with 4 number ones...started off sp...
    Did this route with 4 number ones...started off sp...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me climbing what I thought was the ten.  Trevor L....
    Me climbing what I thought was the ten. Trevor L....
    Rock Climbing Photo: excuse station
    excuse station
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the start.
    Near the start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Oh the goodness. Red, Red, Red,...
    Oh the goodness. Red, Red, Red,...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica climbs this way better then me.
    Jessica climbs this way better then me.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet hands
    Sweet hands
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Stewart sends 'Excuse Station (hard 5.11)' at...
    Dave Stewart sends 'Excuse Station (hard 5.11)' at...
    Rock Climbing Photo: lots of 2.5 friends
    lots of 2.5 friends
    Rock Climbing Photo: Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).
    Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).

    Comments on Excuse Station Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2017
    By J. Hickok
    Jun 6, 2004
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    One 60m rope barely got me to the ledge at the base of the route. It's very very close, but just makes it.
    By d-know
    From: electric lady land
    Jan 26, 2006
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    relentless vertical tight hands forever. my hands were crampin up!
    By Danny Inman
    From: Arvada
    May 1, 2006
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    soooooo good. I originally went down on this end to do No Excuse, but when I saw this beauty I could not resist.
    By Brian Weinstein
    Sep 23, 2006
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Wow. Take the time to walk the extra 20 minutes to this pitch. Wow!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 25, 2007
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Great climb, the smaller your hands, the better. I found it not to technical, but enduro- maybe hard for the grade.
    By Scott W
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Mar 17, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    As with most Indian Creek routes it's easy for the grade if you know how to jam. Maybe 11a if you don't wear tape gloves.
    By Rob L
    From: Durango, CO
    Apr 11, 2008

    sweet route, definitely worth the hike down to it, especially when combined with its neighbor No Excuse. I'd recommend saving a .75 camalot for the end
    By Bob Rotert
    Sep 30, 2008

    Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!! If not, then I guess you don't have an excuse....

    I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!

    The smooth 25 foot section with no face holds to work with after the first 15 feet will be the crux for folks with bigger hands and the top 10 may be the crux for others. The crack opens a little in the middle & upper section and the closes down some at the top. At least at the top you have a small dihedral system to work with and layback a bit off of with your feet.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 27, 2008

    Another one of those ultimate classics. If you like this size /style you won't find a better route anywhere! Take a LOT of #1s.

    By caughtinside
    From: Oakland CA
    Nov 6, 2008

    You can get in two very tight golds in the middle of this climb, so you don't need a million reds. but 7 is nice.
    By Jclimb
    From: Moab, UT
    Sep 20, 2010

    This route is longer than 90'. A 60 barely makes it depending on where you belay. Tie a knot in the end of your rope. A 70 is recommended.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 1, 2012

    Is this part of the Reservoir Wall okay to climb on?
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    Feb 1, 2012

    The ban only comes into effect when the birds move into the nest... thats usually late March or early April. The FOIC will try and keep you posted as to when this happens. BTW, thanks for asking. Following this ban really helps with access to the other cliffs.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 1, 2012

    Thanks Sam!
    By Princess Mia
    From: Vail
    Feb 29, 2012
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    This is probably one of the best routes I have ever done in my life. So long, and so sustained, .75 and #1 cams forever.
    By GabeO
    From: New Haven, CT
    Mar 26, 2012
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    If you're decent at thin hands, it's not bad. Not really #1s for most of it. After the first few feet it's 2.5 friends and tight #2s all the way until it pinches down at the very end. Way easier than No Excuse IMO.
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Nov 5, 2014
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Don't know if its wear from traffic, but a couple tight #2 C4s fit fine before the upper #0.75 section.
    By Sara Campbell
    Mar 28, 2016
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    If you have small hands (BD #1) and feet, get on this beautiful splitter! I found it easier than cupping and fisting a lot of the 5.10 "hand" cracks. There were even some feet.
    By B. Smith
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 1, 2017

    We brought about 7 cams in the #1 range and could really sew up the bottom and still have more for the top. #2s fit for a while as well and I think we brought about 4-5 of them. The top section was amazing ( walking up a foot rail while laying back the crack). This section was the only spot where I placed .75s and I put in 2 of them and felt very secure.

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