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Zappa Dome
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Burnt Weenie Sandwich S 
Conceptual Continuity S 
Excentrifugal Forz S 
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Excentrifugal Forz 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Season: All
Page Views: 1,389
Submitted By: Gerry Cook on Nov 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Straight up to the right side of the roof.

Description 

The first bolt is high, but 5.8 leaders should have no problem reaching it. Easy start on low-angle 5.5 type holds. The route moves onto slab as the wall steepens. The route stays on nearly vertical slab climbing to the roof. The crux is probably a thin, airy move just above the roof. It continues on slab to the anchors but is less vertical.

Location 

Third route from the right on Zappa Dome

Protection 

Eight bolts. One hanger and one chain for anchors.


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By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Mar 6, 2009

fun roof move
By BenJamN
From: Washington State
Jan 2, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Might be easy to 1st bolt but rock quality not quite stellar---a small tcu is useful to protect leader. A fall here would not be pretty.
By Nick Nystrom
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Mar 11, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To add a vote to the debate above about the location of the first bolt, I found it to be absolutely fine. If there were a lower bolt, it wouldn't do much to mitigate the low-angle start anyway.

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