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South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Excellent Adventure S 
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Excellent Adventure 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: B.Scott, J. Tarry
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, and Spring
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Ben Scott on Mar 31, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Excellent Adventure, 11a/b.

Description 

This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2014). Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/art...

Start in a short, left-facing corner about 30 feet left of The Great Corner. Climb two bolts up the corner to a 30 foot traverse moving right along a slopy ledge with non-existent hand holds. After the traverse, climb up the left-leaning seam until you can switch to the easier crack on the left.

Location 

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection 

11 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor.

ROPE MANAGEMENT is tricky with this route due to the long traverse. Climbing with 2 ropes is ideal. Otherwise you can tie both ends of your single rope to your harness, climb the initial corner and traverse with the 1st end, clip the first two bolts on the diagonal with the 2nd end, then untie end 1 and drop it back to your belayer. This sounds weird, but it really wasn't too bad at all.


Photos of Excellent Adventure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent Adventure, 11a/b.
BETA PHOTO: Excellent Adventure, 11a/b.
Rock Climbing Photo: Excellent Adventure, 11a/b.
BETA PHOTO: Excellent Adventure, 11a/b.

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