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BETA PHOTO: The crux roof
|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
Originally claimed to be 5.11b, but very doubtful, more like 5.12.
Beta according to Guide book:
Pitch 1: Start in splitter crack to cave belay (70').
Pitch 2: Climb roof crack (20').
Pitch 3: Climb wild arete on bolts (30').
Pitch 1: Start on easy slab that works into a dirty thin crack with shrubs that you must climb through. Once past the shrubs, it's clean climbing on thin fingers up the left side into the cave. Instead of making a gear anchor here, keeping going twenty more feet past the roof with moderate rope drag to a chain anchor.(90')
Pitch 2: Climb sporty arete (30').
Rap two times with a 60m rope.
Take the faint trail through the shrubbery until you are clearly below the massive roof.
2x Thin fingers to 0.75 BD.
1x BD #3 (optional, but protects start of roof very well).
Several extendable draws
By sam murray
Apr 27, 2016
Really cool route. We broke it up as the book suggests, but linking 1 and 2 would be the way to go. From the chains after the roof you can rap with a single 70 no problem. If you are using the comp splitter as a benchmark 11a (like I did) this is going to be a rude awakening but don't let that hold you back!