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Excalibur S 

Excalibur 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat and Russ
Page Views: 977
Submitted By: MAKB on Feb 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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On the summit. Photo by Adrian Burke

Description 

Climb up a big pinnacle to a great summit which of course has a sword in the top of it. There are 7 sets of anchors which make it possible to do 7 pitches. But the last pitch is probably less than 40 feet and the others can be linked. For this reason its best to think of it as 6 pitches.

P1: 5.9 - start up slab and then climb steep rock to ledge
P2: 5.10a - longest pitch
P3: 5.10a
P4: 5.10c - crux
P5: 5.10a
P6: 5.9 - to summit

Location 

Hike past Satori about 100 yards and the next route is Excalibur.

Protection 

12 bolts and 60m rope are required. As for most routes in Potrero a 70m rope and 20 some draws will make for a much more pleasant outing because of linked pitches and fewer raps.


Photos of Excalibur Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Walking the 3rd class scramble above El Bobo, head...
Walking the 3rd class scramble above El Bobo, head...
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of the 6th pitch, excluding the last ...
Near the top of the 6th pitch, excluding the last ...
Rock Climbing Photo: if you stop at the chains at the top of the 6th, y...
if you stop at the chains at the top of the 6th, y...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second half of the 2nd pitch... as you can see, yo...
Second half of the 2nd pitch... as you can see, yo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up P3.  Crux at the broken roof?  I guess...
Starting up P3. Crux at the broken roof? I guess...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up the first pitch.  The first 1/2 is a bo...
Leading up the first pitch. The first 1/2 is a bo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Further up the first pitch.
Further up the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Pitch 3 I think.
Top of Pitch 3 I think.
Rock Climbing Photo: coming up P2, a fun offwidth.
coming up P2, a fun offwidth.
Rock Climbing Photo: The sword in the stone.
The sword in the stone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finally getting to the "sword" in the st...
Finally getting to the "sword" in the st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the "offwidth" on pitch two...
Finishing up the "offwidth" on pitch two...

Comments on Excalibur Add Comment
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By Paul-B
Jan 1, 2016

Fun route, but very overgraded. Probably 10a at best, even for EPC. Also, the 4 foot bolt spacing is a bit much.....


Still, summit is definitely worth the climb

Also, hiking "past satori" means hiking down hill from satori. Got a bit confused by that at first
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Feb 20, 2016

Very fun route. Worth doing. It's moderate, generously bolted and if you need to, you can aid the crux. Very cool "sword" at the top of the climb. We rapped at every set of anchors to avoid snagging our rope. There is a lot of flora and fauna on the route. In fact, bring some tools to remove some of the plants that are directly on the route.

To get to this route, follow the trail to Satori and when you get there keep following the trail at the base of the cliff (longer than you think) until you arrive at a low angle, bolted start.

Pitch 6: Don't stop at the first set of chains, keep going to the chains just below the ridge line. There is one more bolt above the chains to keep you safe while enjoying the view.
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jan 28, 2017

I agree that it is very easy for the grade. One move wonder perhaps. Good exposure, palm tree belay and cool summit. Climbing is so-so.
By Ryan McDermott
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Feb 6, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Five pitches, not six, with 70m rope. Climbed 1, linked 2&3, 4&5, very straightforward. Crack pitch is really cool--hand/fist crack inside offwidth. Didn't even realize I had done the "crux," and my 67-year-old uncle didn't either. The crack pitch is probably more consistently hard than the "10c" pitch. Worth it all, including a major approach by EPC standards, for the spectacular summit!
By Jake Ryan
From: Gilbert, Arizona
May 30, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

10a at the most!

I think this should be a classic moderate. It was our first in PC and it gave us a real perspective of the town, the ridges, the height, approaches etc. Had a really successful trip and feel it was kicked off by Excalibur!

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