REI Community
Illusion Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Epic Tail of Sir Norbert, The T 
Excalibur T 
Page, The T,S 

Excalibur 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Greyell, David, Darryl, Brandon
Season: Late Spring to Early Fall
Page Views: 1,704
Submitted By: Andrew Davidson on Jan 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting up the first pitch.

Description 

A awesome line up the Illusion Wall. Very Classic. It runs up for 10 pitches. All bolts have a good stance for clipping.

1: 5.8. The approach pitch that will get you to the real climbing, ends at the 4th Class ledges. Trends up and left from the start.

2: 4th class. Traverse across the ledges until you reach the first set of bolted anchors. Short.

3: 5.10+. Starts off on some stiff face climbing leading to a nice 5.9 corner crack.

4: 5.10+. Follow the bolts up for more face climbing. The only pitch that is all bolted.

5: 5.9+. Start out going left and up to find a nice finger crack that lead you to the belay station just right of the signature flake.

6: 5.9. Signature pitch. Short and sweet. Takes you out left, underclinging the Excalibur flake. Go up and around to the bolted anchors (no chains)

7: 5.10-. More face climbing and small cracks lead you to the next anchors.

8: 5.10+. Has some small finger cracks, with a short traverse right.

9: 5.9. Has an awesome corner that appears harder than it is. Most rappel from the top of this pitch.

10: Easy 5th Class. Dirty. Just another pitch that gets you to the top of the wall.

To Descend: Rappel the route. Use only the bolted stations that have chains.

Location 

Left side of the bivy clearing. From the 4th Class ledges, goes up right of The Page.

Protection 

Standard Light Rack to 3"
Quick and alpine draws, 15 or so.
Bolted belay stations.
Two 60m Ropes


Photos of Excalibur Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Pitch 3.  You can see the signature flake a...
Top of Pitch 3. You can see the signature flake a...

Comments on Excalibur Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Hirst
Apr 3, 2015

Excellent, very well protected climbing, characteristic of Chris Greyell's later routes. It's a bit of a hump to the base.
By Dan Kluskiewicz
May 6, 2015

I agree — every pitch (excluding the short traverse) was really fun. I would emphasize the "light rack" part; every pitch is at least half bolted. I think most parties would be comfortable with a single rack to #1 or #2 BD, as well as some small and medium nuts. A #3 protects an easy runout at the end, if you want it.
By Daniel Coltrane
From: Seattle, WA
May 11, 2015

This and all of the modern routes on Illusion wall put up by Chris Greyell and company were not put up on lead. They were hand drilled on rappel. Most pitches were cleaned and climbed many times on TR by multiple people before they were bolted. This is what provided the quality stances to clip from.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About