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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 340'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian Komen, Mark Thomas 1990
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Kendrick Dane on the third and final approach rapp...


A Fun 3 pitch climb, the second pitch of which is great.

Pitch 1: 5.10a ~100 ft PG13
Face climb off the ground on jugs to a straight in obtuse dihedral. Place some small pro to a piton and head left. 5.9+, (I thought this was the crux). Continue up with sparce gear to a low-angle groove with a 5.10a slabby crux.

Pitch 2. 5.10d ~140 ft
A great exciting pitch
Face climb up from the belay to the bolt, can sling a flake and get a small nut. Clip the bolt at the crux and pull 5.10b moves to a nice stance under a roof. Head left (tricky) to the main left facing dihedral. Head up placing small pro to another roof. 5.10d crux, Lie back around this and head up to easier ground. Run the victory lap to a nice belay 40 ft higher. Good gear and optional bolt on Seventh Sojourn. Belay takes .75 - 1 camelot's.

Pitch 3 5.10a or 5.9 100ft
5.10a variation, head left clip a bolt and make a few moves of 5.10a

5.9 Head straight and right and head up a chimney, can angle right for more climbing.


After the rappels you will be at the base of Seventh Sojourn, head uphill about 20-30 ft, and look for a piton in a obtuse dihedral.


Nuts + 2X Camelots .3 to #2, 1X #3, or equivalent. Some smaller C3's came in handy. Could also place some small slider nuts if desired.

Comments on Excalibur Add Comment
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By mattb19
May 10, 2009

I feel like you can get away with a single set of cams. It was also nice to have some trango slider nuts.
By Mick S
From: Utah
Jul 27, 2012

I highly recommend the new rap route down the Watchman's Secret, it ends at the base of Excalibur. 70 meter rope required. The fixed pin in the corner at the start of the first pitch is 20+ years old and showing it's age. Micro nuts are useful to back it up.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 15, 2012

Regarding Mick's comment about the fixed pin, I was able to wiggle it by hand, beware.
By Kendrick Dane
Jul 30, 2014

Re: loose pin in P1: A good samaritan must have given it a tap recently. It still could probably use another good bash, but I wasn't able to wiggle it. Also re: P1, it was very nice to have my micro offset nuts as those were all I could really place from my rack. The low-angle slab that looks cruisey from the rappel is actually quite delicate climbing and run out. The seams are very shallow in the bottom 1/3 of the route.
By mattb19
Jun 29, 2015

Got back on this thing after years of not climbing it. I would definitely have some micro nuts for the first pitch. The pin is still there but does seem lose and angled somewhat down. Even with micro nuts the whole first pitch is rather run out. The nice rappel anchors for Watchman's Secret do give you a good feeling for cruising the ramp as you can clip the closest bolt to it for pro.

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