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6. The Tower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T 
Arrowhead TR 
Back to the Gym TR 
Back to the Wall T 
Crefeld Crank TR 
Dead Tree Dihedral TR 
Ex-traction Slab TR 
In & Out T,TR 
Johnson Route T,TR 
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 
Manticore Face TR 
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 
No Rest for the Wicked TR 
Ogre Arete T,TR 
Rachel's Crack T,TR 
Red Knob, The T,TR 
Rock Romancer TR 
Rossinator, The TR 
Tower Wall Direct T 
Unrest of the Witches TR 

Ex-traction Slab 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jonah Klein
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: kenr on Jul 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: routes overview Left side Tower Wall A Risky Bear ...

Description 

Lots of slab climbing -- footwork and balance needed in the bottom 25 feet. Then easier slab moves. Then two short overhangs to the top.

This route seems to be much like the Risky Bear route assigned to the Three Bears Wall. It is included here so that climbers exploring Tower Wall can be aware that it's worthwhile to do it from near or the same anchors used for routes on Tower Wall, and to clarify a distinct line of climbing which does not cross other routes on Tower Wall. Anyway however the naming and assignment to a sector gets worked out, meanwhile go ahead and just enjoy the climbing.

Start on the face to the left of the Ex-traction cracks. Up that (likely with an early right-to-left trend). Easier slabs section, then a short steep move about five feet left of a bush (of Ex-traction). Another slab section, then finish up small dihedral open book through left half of darker top rocks - (left of where Ex-traction finishes through center or right-center of the darker top rocks).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

On the slab face just left of the crack system (of Ex-traction) which is about 15 feet left of the Shark's Tooth detached flake.

Protection 

Top-rope set up requires long static line for top anchor. Likely need to rappel down to get both ends of the rope to the bootom.
Protection for Trad leading unknown, likely inadequate.


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By jon crefeld
Sep 4, 2015

How's the protection Ken? And correct me if I'm wrong, but the crux is the vertical top piece?

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