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Start on the left side of a chimney and traverse right across it on big holds to the first bolt. Continue up on well-featured, pocketed rock clipping bolts as you go. Top out on a spacious ledge with chain anchors. The crux comes after the third bolt pulling through slightly more than vertical terrain.
This is on the buttress just left of Sith Lord
and Dark Side
; about 50' right of Disturbed Susan
. The route starts on the left side of a large overhang; avoid the overhang by traversing in from the side.
Bolts with chain anchors.
From: Carbondale, CO
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
We started this route straight on through the blocky roof, and it was way better (run-out though, needs a bolt for the direct start) but a bit more difficult as well. Good fun!