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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Thompson & Tim Ryan, 2002
Page Views: 1,961
Submitted By: Nathan Hollingsworth on Oct 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking at Ewetopia from the ground.


This route has a hard start, some cool roof moves and then the business begins.


This is near the top of the trail, to the right a little of Jewel of the Wild.


9 bolts.

Photos of Ewetopia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Sjoden belayed by Mike Bankoff on Ewtopia.
Eric Sjoden belayed by Mike Bankoff on Ewtopia.

Comments on Ewetopia Add Comment
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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Nov 23, 2008

Great route, steeper than your normal Shelf route. The start is the crux with some 11+ish moves up higher.
By Chris I
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Stellar route and in the shade from the morning till mid-late afternoon. There is a low crux between the 1st to 3rd bolts, then fun juggy climbing up till two other distinct cruxes. All around an excellent route and a new personal favorite at Shelf.
By Andy McAdams
Sep 25, 2011

This was a good route, and my personal opinion is this is a good route to break into 12s. The crux is definitely the start. The third bolt should not be clipped from the semi-slopey left hand, but it is safer to climb another one or two moves up toward the rest and then clip because less rope will be out for clipping and the holds are stellar.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2013

Be thoroughly warmed up as the crux start requires you to pull hard. Comparable to its neighbor, Jewel of the Wild, maybe not as much pump though. I thought that it the start was pretty bouldery too compared to some other 12a's at Shelf. The top is a bit chossy but still cool finishing moves. Definitely worth getting on!
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Oct 12, 2015

FA: Rick Thompson & Tim Ryan, 2002.
By Robert Chappe
Apr 27, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Might be a good idea to have your belayer stand on the boulder at the base and keep you a little tight for the first 3 bolts. The crux is low, and the best clipping location for bolt 3 is a bit higher than you would like for how close the ground is.

Stellar route.
By Christian Mason
From: Westminster CO
May 9, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Does anyone know anything about the bolt line directly out the roof out of the pod?

I followed the chalk, (and 11+ or so) climbing up and right out of the big pod after the boulder problem start.

There appears to be a direct option that looks both HARD and like it doesn't get climbed often.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jun 28, 2016

Christian, the route you're asking about is called "Jewel of Denial" and is rated 12d/13a.

FA: Rick Thompson, 2003.

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