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Higher Security Risk
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cold Shot S 
Evolution S 
Gimme 3 Steps T,S 
Turmoil S 


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: S. Annecone and T. Hayes, 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Jan 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Tom at the first crux past the 3rd bolt, eyeing hi...

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  • Description 

    Evolution, formerly known as "Gimme Back my Bullets" and first TR'd in 1993, starts at the beginning of Cold Shot and then follows the sinuous seam crack up the Higher Security face. It's fairly sustained, with 11a or b cruxes at the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts. Exit the pod at the 5th bolt, angle up the left leaning crack, then hand traverse up a nice rail to the anchor.

    There's still some scaly rock in places, but it's cleaning up quickly. Feels as pumpy and sustained as Cold Shot, but it's more technical and perhaps a little steeper.


    Quick draws only, 6 bolts to anchor.

    Photos of Evolution Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Evolution.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Evolution snakes up the thin seam in the middle of...
    Evolution snakes up the thin seam in the middle of...

    Comments on Evolution Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jason Haas
    Apr 26, 2006

    As a heads up, there's still plenty of loose rock on this thing.
    By Robbie the Dog
    Sep 10, 2006

    I second the heads up on the loose rock. A couple of foot holds disintegrated as I was traversing into the bigger stuff to the left. Several flakes flex, and there seems to be a largish area of hollow and scaly rock to the left of the crack that ends in the bigger stuff. If it received a serious exfoliation, it might be worth it.
    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Dec 11, 2006
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I agree with the two comments above, this route still needs some serious cleaning.
    By slim
    Dec 15, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Ok climbing, but weird bolt locations and exfoliating chips blowing out from under left foot at crux. Felt harder than a lot of the 11d to 12a routes that I have done in the canyon. Not sure why, just kind of a weird route.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Oct 3, 2009

    Higher Security Risk still needs a little cleaning, but I thought this route was pretty nice and I wouldn't give it a bomb. There were several interesting moves, particularly getting into and out of the "pod". Most of the looser rock is near the anchors. This face gets a lot of good late-season sun in the afternoon.
    By Ray Lovestead
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 5, 2012
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    2012 - clean as a whistle. Ready for prime time and totally worth it.

    Two distinct cruxes that are worth the effort of figuring out. I give it 2.5 stars. More if it was longer.
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Nov 12, 2014
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Hmmm, I don't know that I would go as far as calling this thing clean. I would say there is still quite a bit of questionable rock including friable flakes and overall hollow sounding bigger features. Okay climbing, but the rock quality is subpar.

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