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Hueco: V12-13 Font: 8B R

Type:  Boulder, 55'
Original:  Hueco: V12-13 Font: 8B R [details]
FA: Jason Kehl
Page Views: 18,214
Submitted By: Tim Steele on Jan 14, 2007

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The opening moves of 'Evilution'


This landmark problem was first climbed by Jason Kehl, and stands as a North American classic. At 55 feet, it is closer to a route than a boulder problem, and represents a new breed of boulder problems pushing the envelope of highball bouldering. The initial face was first ascended by Chris Sharma around the same time that he did 'The Mandala'. Originally, Chris simply dropped off from the lip holds at 20+ feet (most people down climb a bit before dropping). The initial face features steep patina crimps on immaculate rock streaked with yellow lichen. The drop-off problem is a classic in its own right and checks in at V9/10.

Jason’s visionary line pulls the thin lip moves above the drop-off problem and continues onto an insecure 5.11 slab. The upper crux is purportedly V9. Since Jason’s ascent, a variation has been established that takes are rightward exit that has easier moves, but on less than solid rock.


Center of the South face of the Grandpa Peabody.


pads and spotters...lots of them.

Photos of Evilution Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Evilution.
Rock Climbing Photo: Flailing on "Evilution"
Flailing on "Evilution"
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerad Friedrichs at the start of Evilution
Jerad Friedrichs at the start of Evilution
Rock Climbing Photo: Evilution
Rock Climbing Photo: Evilution

Comments on Evilution Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 3, 2016
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 31, 2008

Awesome problem. Evilution to the lip is a must-do for anyone climbing in the V10 range.
By molony
Feb 18, 2009

just curious, but does the drop off version have a different name?
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 19, 2009

Yep, it's called "Evilution to the Lip"
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 5, 2009

I think what molony might be thinking of is Transporter Room, an old Dale Bard problem that went up that face. Other than that, I can't say whether "Evilution to the Lip" treads new ground or not.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 9, 2009

As far as I know Transporter Room is just around the corner to the right of Evolution and it would be pretty hard to get them mixed up.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 30, 2009

I'm basing that belief on the OLD Eastside guide that had poorly written topos of the Milks. In fact, mine could be a incorrect recollection of a correct description, or vice versa. To be honest, I never cross referenced that against the the new Mick Ryan guide (which I also have) since I've never been good enough to climb that hard that far OTD. I've bouldered there and just also thought that that's where Transporter Room went.
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 30, 2009
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 30, 2009

Yep- that would be the one. It seems as though the B2 would be "Evilution to the Lip" and that aspect faces the road more. The left hand .12c may not actually exist, I saw some folks out there with ladders to scope holds and some chalk on it for the first time ever. The location of Transporter Room is actually pretty close but the face that it is on is much wider and runs more perpendicular to the road. The easier routes are further right still around a blunt arete and starting near the blunt arete and heading left into the towering face that overhangs slightly all the way to the top of the boulder which was what I always thought was "Transporter Room" is actually Ambrosia V11+++. A new Kevin J. problem, He had actually also been under the impresion that this was Transporter Room until an actual description of the route was availible and made it apparent that it was closer to the left arete of the face.
By molony
Apr 7, 2009

i was actually wondering if sharma had given the problem a namewhen he originally did it, guess not
By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Feb 3, 2010

Who's got repeats on this? I know Alex Johnson did it, but I'm not sure if it was to the lip or all the way up.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 27, 2014

Sharma did not name the problem when he did the first ascent to the lip around 2000. Other climbers rated it V10 and called it the 45 degree overhang on the Grandpa Peabody boulder.

Jason Kehl put up the original Evilution in 2002. He almost did not complete his project because he was about to leave Bishop for other projects. I have read him being disappointed that future ascentionists prefer to climb the easier, direct line rather than his version. Kehl used a mono crimp to a breadloaf sloper on the upper portion. Jason's vision of this climb ushered in the modern bouldering highball movement. Most ascents of Evilution after his onward go by the easier variation, which uses a loose jug hold. He avoided this big hold entirely.

The second ascentionist, Frenchman Tony Lamiche, established the variation during a Petzl Roctrip in the early 2000's. He sent on the same day that fellow Frenchman Daniel (D.D.) Dulac broke his ankle badly, ending his trip.

I think Alex Honnold has completed the problem past the lip. Highball master Kevin Jorgeson has done it. Carlo Traversi and his brother Giovanni both made ground up ascents of the original Evolution (V12) in late 2008. Tobias Haller did Evolution Direct (V11) ground up around the same time. The accomplished climber Matt Wilder did both versions of the problem in the latter part of the 2008 season as well. Enzo Oddo also did it recently. The 12 year old Mirko Caballero sent in December 2013 which I find very impressive.
By nathanael
From: Riverside, CA
Mar 3, 2016

First Female Ascent by Nina Williams

Is there a start that doesn't require a 6 pad stack?

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