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Evil Shenanigans 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 735
Submitted By: Rob P. on Jan 12, 2009

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View of the third pitch from the 2nd belay stance.

Description 

First pitch (5.8) is juggy and fun. Second pitch has the 11b crux right in the begining. It climbs the blank gray face with small hands and almost no feet. Only ~20ft of 5.11 climbing followed by easy 10 climbing to the second anchor. 3rd pitch of 5.10 is the best pitch! Follows a great crack up a roof; sustained and fun with a nice top-out on Wonder Wall.

Location 

The furthest route to the right on Wonder Wall.

Protection 

Bolts all the way up. 3 anchor stations.


Photos of Evil Shenanigans Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit is great!
The summit is great!
Rock Climbing Photo: Plate at the bottom says it all ;)
Plate at the bottom says it all ;)

Comments on Evil Shenanigans Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Nov 20, 2011

I did P1 and P3. Both are very good, especially P3.
By Phill T
Dec 25, 2014

P2 can be done two ways. Left at what I would call very technical and thin crimpfest with no feet 11++, or right using the somewhat dirty corner at more of an 11ab. Third pitch is super fun, well bolted and I felt pretty soft for 10d. Great ledges at all belays that have easily accessible anchors for the neighboring route. You could easily bypass the 11b and do the 10b? next door for a fun 9, 10, 10, 3 pitch route!
By Morgan F. Smith
From: Texas
Feb 8, 2016

Pitch one is pretty uneventful, but heads up to a nice ledge. Definitely lead pitch two, it's very technical, tiny and difficult. Small holds with no feet for the first 10-15 feet and then it lightens up. This pitch also ends at a great belay ledge. The last pitch is fun as well, leading to a nice summit with hanging belay. I'd say 14 draws should be plenty. A good cool down or warm up!
By 20 kN
Administrator
From: Hawaii
Jan 14, 2017
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The nameplate at the bottom of the route is no longer there. That or I missed it, and I looked pretty hard. You can rap the whole route with a 60m. Pitch three is the best pitch, one is reasonable, two is just okay.
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Jan 19, 2017

Burly little slab section
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jan 28, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route is pretty cool, especially for the area. I agree with the description and comments: P1- good warm up. Pitch 2 has 2 options: The intended route follows the bolt line up a crux section of 2 or 3 bolts. It has 2 different sequential .11a sections imho, separated by a thin rest that pushes the grade to .11b and eases up dramatically. The other way to do pitch 2 is head right, into the corner and stretch left for clips but at an easy .10-.
Pitch 3: much more sustained than I was expecting with pretty awesome movement, interesting holds, optional crack etc... Worth the easy approach :)

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