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Evil Alchemist 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, bolted by Luke Laeser
Page Views: 2,529
Submitted By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007

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Ben at the crux of Evil Alchemist


Climb the steep underbelly of the low roof left of Siege Warfare's start up to a good kneebar and some thuggy moves out right onto the face. The difficulty eases up there and a few technical moves take you to the anchor. This is the farthest left route on the main wall's front face. There is a terrible 11-something to the left of this route around the corner, but you don't want to climb it...



Photos of Evil Alchemist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving into the crux. May 2014.
Moving into the crux. May 2014.

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By Laeserguns
Jul 24, 2008

I bolted this route after climbing the Evil Elliot route to the left. At the time we thought it was about 13a. Matt Samet made the first ascent of this one on his first trip to the dungeon and agreed on the grade, but he didn't use any knee bars.
By Jean
Jul 27, 2008

I'll second Luke's opinion on the rating. 12c, hummmm..... Who's the consensus?
By Matthew NM
Apr 7, 2009

Regarding the grade and the beta, I used what seemed like an obvious kneebar on my right leg to turn the "lip" of the bottom steep section which made a desparately powerful move for me something that I could almost no-hands in the middle of with the kneebar. With this beta the route went down 2nd try for me at a time when I was truly maxed climbing at .12+ leading me to believe that .13a couldn't be accurate.

I am certain that this route would feel much harder than .12c without this beta although I never did try to repeat it either way.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

As Matt states, I recall making important use of a kneebar below the roof; this definitely made the clip at the lip and the move out of the roof reasonable. That said, I always thought that the crux was the move that is shown in the picture above, i.e. a few moves above the roof. The body tension required for that move made me want to fill my Huggies. I have not been on this in years, but I remember both my partner and I agreeing that this was definitely 13a. Just my 2 cents.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jun 21, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

6 bolts (5 if stick-clipping b2 or skipping the first- shared with Siege Warfare- to minimize drag).
With good beta, including 2 knee bars, I found this was more doable than Beastmaster (12c/d) but harder than Siege Warfare (12c/d). More than 1 way to do the crux, so don't get discouraged.

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