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Every Which Way But Loose S 
Friendship Seven S 
Left of Seven T 
Trash Can T 

Every Which Way But Loose 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Al Simons
New Route: Yes
Season: any warm day-shade is good in summer
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: allen simons on Jul 25, 2010

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Every Which Way in relationship to Trash Can and F...


This has cruxes at bolts 5 through 7 and the upper slab. This route is fun, but heed the name. Avoid the loose stuff on the face and at the overhang traverse right at the first bolt past the first belay. I wanted this route to go right up the overhang, but there is a lot of "bombay crap" in the overhang. Deepest thoughts...hummmmn...this is a serious undertaking for a sport route due to the loose nature of the rock. Helmets are advised for the belayer as well as the climber.


This is in Big Thompson Canyon, in the Narrows, 1.3 miles west of the siphon tube. Start as for the Trash Can, clip the first bolt and gain the left face. Face climb past 7 bolts (9+/10a) to a two chain belay. 2nd pitch. Stem across right (long sling-check out the action photo) under the loose roof and on to the left wall of the trash can, up past 4 more bolts and a slab to a two chain anchor.


Can be done in one long pitch, that's how I did it on the FA (I clipped the first bolt of the second pitch and reached back and unclipped the quickdraw that was at the first belay-see action photo). 7 bolts to a 2 chain belay, 5 bolts on the second pitch to a 2 chain belay. Long sling (4-5 feet) for the first bolt past the first belay or the rope drag will kill ya.

To get down, use a two rope rap from the top chains or one rope to the first belay, (getting under the overhang to the chains takes some trickery if you do the one rope thing). Keep the rope right into the Trash Can or it can get hung up.

Photos of Every Which Way But Loose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Al, pitch 2, just after the loose roof traverse.
Al, pitch 2, just after the loose roof traverse.

Comments on Every Which Way But Loose Add Comment
Show which comments
By allen simons
Sep 16, 2010

Ha, no road cones needed. How did the climb go for ya?
By Eric Winne
Sep 29, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun climbing. Loose, but that's what we expect in The Narrows. Seems much easier than Left of Seven. Seems soft .9.
By allen simons
Oct 2, 2010

Definitely easier than LO-Seven. More rest so you don't get the pump.
By Patrick Ackerson
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 6, 2017

Hey Al, did this climb today. Really liked the layback nature though you wouldn't see it from the ground and spot on for the grade.
By allen simons
Jun 26, 2017

Pat, good to hear from you. Glad you liked the climb. Another fun 5.9 is Beeline Highway if you give it a go~!

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